Yes i saw that and i kinda wanted one, but i got a pretty simple xt90 version in mind if i get around to it. For now, as i said, i dont even have a loop key. Power switch, 2 holes for wires, and charger. And each one has silicone inside, and every crack is flex sealed on the outside, twice over. Id happily ride through a hurricane.
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Okay but I’m not needing an antispark solution at all, this is completely irrelevant and derailing the thread. I guess I’ll start a new one and try again.
This thread has all the information you need to waterproof your board dude. Maybe reread it.
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we’re giving you simpler alternatives to jumping through all these hoops for waterproofing your board 
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Lol whatever man, there’s four of us here that think you can make either solution work, it’s up to you at this point
It is still relevant, but at the same time, most of us don’t even bother making our builds waterproof sooo
I just don’t ride in the rain, for some people that is not an option cough florida
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This thread is supposed to be about not using a switch, loopkey, or any additional power component besides the VESC/antispark to have less holes for both waterproofing and a clean look.
I see it has devolved into an off-topic discussion.
^
i don’t even use an antispark anymore, so imm not for or against any ideas
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This thread isn’t even about antisparks anyway lol so don’t worry about it
I mean you’ve gone full circle and answered your own question now haven’t you?
What even is the question at this point? I came in here and it was so off topic that I didn’t even realize it was off topic lol
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Conformal coating, maybe west system 650 epoxy. Silicone sealant. Flex seal. Number of holes becomes irrelevant. Whether you want to reduce that by using roll to start and auto shutoff is optional, but roll to start sounds a bit finicky. If you REALLY want the least possible holes, route all wires through the deck, and look into wireless charging. Id recommend using 2 batteries in your enclosure. One with qi pads to charge wirelessly, and one to run the board that charges off the other one. That way you dont need a qi pad on every p group.
my point:
up to you on what you wanna do but we’re giving you some extra ideas on how to waterproof your build with, don’t just be so fixated on having no holes
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Did you use cable glands for your phase wires?
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in the first pic yes, on the bottom 2 no
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And they didn’t leak? I’ve never used them before and I’m thinking of adding them to my esc enclosure but not sure yet
They seem kind of bulky, and idk if I could run more than one wire through a single one. Maybe if you bind the bundle tightly with buytl or electrical tape it would work
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I’m using TrueConn plugs and a fuse for charging as they’re pretty waterproof and durable. Qi is too slow and causes too much heat for my liking. I’m trying to figure out how to get roll start working otherwise I’ll be having it “always on” and just manually disconnecting the battery for storage. Been looking into single 9-pin plugs that I could use to replace phase wires and hall sense wires as the plugs could be waterproofed much better than grommets over the wires.
Good moves, but(and i know you hate loop keys) consider just installing one internally. If youre willing to disconnect the battery for storage, might as well. Then when you need to store it, pull the key and replace it with another xt90s, cover the contacts where the wires would go entirely with silicone for safety. One less point of ingress for something that could short the contacts is all.
I already have one internally, which is why I’ve been trying to dismiss the idea so much.
This is going to cause issues with your enclosure to deck seal, isn’t it. Butyl tape is hard and messy to take off. Seems like a lot of effort to turn off your board. More effort than waterproofing a loopkey into an enclosure 
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This is really nice, basically exactly what I’m trying to do. I was worried about external MR60 coming loose with rough roads and vibration (it’s what I use on my motors too). How many accidental disconnects have you had?