Waterproofing at all costs: a discussion.

And 2 layers of flex seal over the enclosure. Technically, just the edges. Just know youll have to replace that every time you open it. Gorilla tape is also super effective, but kinda ghetto. It got my boosted shit through hurricane season without issue.

The flex seal goes on the road. No water can get in the skate if it’s not on the road in the first place. Plus that’s more flex seal to sell.

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Hol up. Youre close. But not quite there. We need to flex seal the entire sky. Or at least all the clouds.

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leaky clouds are the real problem. i blame the government. can’t fix a damned thing. bastards.

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Just don’t overdrill the hole diameter,fit the O rings then loctite in place,they’re never going to be moved,charge port/power button,tried and tested,left locked in an upright position to a railing in torrential rain for over an hour,all gravy! Sun came out finished my whisky and moved on :sunglasses:

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Then put WS650 epoxy on the back there and seal the parts to the enclosure and you’re golden

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@b264 recommends butyl tape for that.

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leak back at the clouds

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i’m pissing at the sky RIGHT NOW

i think i hear the cops.

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might be ok on xenith. Do that on fsesc6.6 plus and it will kill the mosfets in the built-in antispark system. If all the fets die shorted, then there’s no problem. If some die open, then it could cause a chain of components failure until the esc gets totally bricked.

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I love the loopkey. Its


easy to make it Waterproof.

Oof, pelican case is bulky AF there. Also naah to that wiring mess. I’m trying to make the board actually look nice too. Also I’m sticking with the eBoosted enclosure.

Can people just lay off with the loopkey? it’s been said no to plenty of times why are you people pushing it so hard?

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cause it works, is safe, cheap, and not hard to mount and seal :man_shrugging:

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Please explain to me how a loopkey is a solution to any topic in this thread:

  • Waterproofing
  • Fewer holes in the enclosure
  • Roll to start

And please try hard with your explanation, I’m ready to see some mental gymnastics.

Ive had this exact conversation and came to the conclusion that a low profile loop key riser or latching switch that actually moves a loop key, along with roll to start and auto shutoff, is the best power switch possible. In theory, you shouldnt need to change the loop key out often anyways, and waterproofing is pretty extensively covered here.

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So your diy switch solution because you couldn’t afford a good latching switch is your fix to having less holes and better waterproofing? Sorry I completely missed how this relates to this thread besides being brought up over and over for no reason.

Less holes does not equal waterproof. Waterproofing EVERY single crack does. You dont want a loop key in the interest of less holes, and cuz theyre ugly, so put the loop key inside where you dont see it and seal up every crack. Problem solved.

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thing with loop keys is that they do the same thing as an antispark, but for cheaper and just as reliably

so itms not cause we can’t afford a latching switch no

not every esc has a built in AS

Someone did this with an AS150, the bullet one

It’s actually more funny that it’s bothering you so much lmao

Loop key = zero failures
Antispark circuits = many failures

It’s as simple as that

It is true that the antispark switch might be more waterproof but if you’re getting enough water on your board to get past an XT90 that’s plugged in, you have other issues.

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don’t forget

your enclosure has a massive hole spanning the majority of the deck so you might wanna get rid of that too

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