I’ve heard of both unities and stormcores glitching and being unusable until they have had a hard disconnect/reconnect.
Also, its just peace of mind to be able to completely disconnect easily.
Lastly, emergency situations. Any number of things could happen where it would be ideal to just pull the power.
I’d never build without a loop key of some sort unless it were just too hard/impractical to put one in. There are a quite a few ingenious loopkey designs around. I particularly like @janpom ‘no remove’ loopkey model that he was kind enough to share. Will see if I can find it
I have a 9S single drive build on ahmyo akashas that has a focbox and a flipsky eswitch in it. no power button, just a charge port. works great, I don’t think I’ve ever had to do anything with it after it was built.
Ive been meaning to set up roll to start. But i still want my power button. No loopkey. I even made several loopkeys as soldering practice. But eh. If it dies, it dies. I decided on that attitude about this particular build as soon as i had to finish shaping the deck myself. Still waterproofed the living fuck out of it. Good enough.
Good lord, No! Dun do it! Dun ever connect the esc to battery without connecting the switch to that plug beforehand. Alternatively, you can either short the switch’s pins or entirely bypass the esc’s built-in antispark switch.
this seems like a better solution, thanks. I’ve been leaving my board powered on 24/7 anyway and monitoring the battery all week, seems to barely drain at all if any when not in use and has been fine which is another part of why I want no power switch.
if I can, I’ve also heard of some people turning their board on via the remote
to have a build with no power button in the pursuit of waterproofing. fewer holes=less points of ingress for water. also thinking of combining hall sensors and phase wires into 9-pin XLR plugs to reduce the hole count
I second @EreTroN 's question. Why? I plugged the battery into my xenith, then the switch. I detect no problems.
@tech.shit if you want waterproof, obvi the less holes the better, but just conformal coat everything( @b264 , what is the exact stuff you use again?), silicone inside the enclosure around every hole, and do at least 2 coats of flex seal spray. It takes for EVER to dry but it works well. Comes in colors, too. Particularly heavy around the edges of the enclosure. And, run all wires through rubber gaskets, not just drilled holes.
i think putting this much effort to prevent water getting in has some diminishing returns specially at the cost of convenience and power
i don’t think xlr can handle the amps you might end up hitting on a board, but i could be wrong, there may be plugs with 3 main phase pins to handle more power
but i’ve done water resistant board bo problem for much less effort (i can find photos for proof later)