Waterproofing at all costs: a discussion.

Anyone ever done a build with no power button? just roll to start and auto-off after 15 mins? I tried it once earlier with my FSESC 6.6+ but I wasn’t able to get the board started. wondering what the trick is.


I don’t think the fsesc supports that if it has the latching switch antispark. The flipsky enhanced antisparks and unity/stormcore both support it.


Never had a board with a power button.


would it work if I add the separate antispark?

Yeah the flipsky enhanced antispark does support roll to start, but I’m not sure I’d add a second antispark.

I don’t think mine has any antispark, and if it does it’s just a 20k resistor than I can remove

The 6.6 plus doesn’t have a power switch?

oh yeah there’s a switch plug on the board, I was gonna leave it unpopulated

Does the esc power on without the switch? If it does then you can just put an antispark in

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Not technically, or maybe yes, but I’ve built with a Unity that used roll-to-start. But I always advise having a loopkey or some sort of hard disconnect mechanism. The Unity roll to start stopped working in short order and now it just falls back on the loopkey I’d put there.

I also made another skate with no power button and it works okay, but I dislike not having a loopkey. I didn’t have a place to put a loopkey in that deck.

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The purpose for me is a more waterproof enclosure with less points of ingress so an external loopkey is just a bulky power button in my eyes. I might try “always on” and just keep it at a decent charge so it never leaks it’s self dead in storage.

A loopkey is extremely easy to make waterproof. Coming from the dude who will skate in a thunderstorm.

It’s also a very nice hard disconnect.


I’m more worried about the hole in my enclosure, and idk why I’d need a hard disconnect.

West System 650 epoxy is your friend.


I have several boards with no power button.
I use the built in roll to start on the unity or the Flispky smart antispark.

my main purpose is to not have an extra button on the enclosure.

most of the time it is ok.

some boards I have to push further than I wish…
like 10 15.ft…

to turn on on the bench I use a power drill and roll it against the wheel…


This is what I want to do, why would you need to push more than 3-4 feet though?

Never know why you’d need lifeboat or a fire extinguisher or a CDC … until you do need them.


I’m pretty concerned about the looks too. I’d rather get a fancier switch than a loopkey. Or no switch at all.

Now, the truth comes forth :crazy_face:

Reducing functionality for appearance reasons isn’t my jam, but if it’s your jam, then loopkeys are rather difficult to stomach. Although some have been made to look pretty awesome.


I’m running no switch (just roll to start) on my eMTB, but I can also easily pop the top-box enclosure open and hard-disconnect the battery if need be (which I pretty much always do when I am done using the board). Having a hard disconnect in your circuit is a good safety measure, and also makes storing boards long term a lot easier.

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