Yeah i ended up going krank in the back, aps in the front. 84a krank fatcones boardside and 87a cones in the rear, and 80a fatcones boardside and 85a cones in the front.
Alrighty, bit of an update here. The new bushings feel fucking amazing and totally changed how the board feels. I can carve and turn just as hard as i can on my dkps, (even a bit more) and can still hit 30 with no issues. I might tighten up the back truck a tad just so that high speed carving feels better, but other than that the board feels great. All of this is coming as a bit of a surprise because I’m super light at 120 lbs, and running these trucks at the stock 30/30, but I’ll take this win for sure. The led strip and buck converter were also just delivered, so Ill install that tomorrow since I have a day off. Since the enclosure is coming off anyways Ill take the time to put in a better gasket and some silicone for waterproofing, as well as go back and loctite everything.
After that I think all this thing needs are some 1 inch risers or something to give it more clearance. Excited to come out to carvePDX this year as well, if my plans don’t change that is.
It’s to be expected though I guess. I think at some point I will try to repaint the enclosure with something more durable, if any of you have ideas I would love to hear em. Otherwise this board has been great though, no major mechanical issues or failures, but I guess time will tell if it stays that way.
I also have a buck converter and a set of lights in, but I haven’t figured out a way to fit the buck converter inside my already tight enclosure. I may need to just get a battery box mounted outside and run the lights off that- or find a smaller buck converter. I already struggled to find the correct voltage and amperage for my use case though, so I don’t know if that would be an option.
There may be space on top of the BMS but it would be a reaaally tight sqeeze. I may try to file or cut the heatsink on the buck to a smaller footprint.
I want the lights to run along the outside edge of the deck(where it is painted pink currently) it’s all diffused and addressable so I think it would look sick at night time. It’s just a headache actually getting it on there and working. I’m also worried about killing the leds if an edge of the deck hits a curb or something, so I don’t know how I would go about protecting them. Maybe a few coats of epoxy over the top of them?
I think it’s been mentioned here before but I wonder if you could find pink truck bedliner. It’s what I use on the bottom of my enclosures, works super well and you can just add another coat if it gets too beat up.
Also, you could ask @poastoast for some of these GD covers (or the file if you can print), maybe you can get them in pink too
Yeah I’m going to get some half inch(or maybe even 1 inch) risers printed up, just been procrastinating on it. Those gear drive covers look interesting though, Do you find that they need to be replaced often or are they durable enough? I’d assume it depends on what material you print em out of.
I’ve never ground all the way through them before, usually I swap em out before that just for cosmetic reasons. They last quite a while, not sure the material of mine though.
Getting caught up on your build, so clean. So you need a 70v to 12v buck? that thing you’ve got is a monster. What amperage are you looking for? Just to push 2m of 144rgb and a headlight?
Yeah its the only one i could find matching my needs that woukd get delivered in a decent amount of time. I think i may just cut it down because it shouldnt get that hot with the power my lights need.
Yeah my light strip is a 3a syrip so I think it will be fine. For headlights I’m planning on using @ShutterShock Lights, which won’t need to be run through the buck because they can handle the voltage as is.
The lights that havenever got for beta testing look sharp as hell. I have some 5v lights that im going to convert to 12v with new drivers eventually but im double bucking rn lol (12s to 12v then 12v to 5v). Kinda wish ShutterShock had released the lights before I committed but now im learning how to push 4pin leds so meh. Kinda silly how hard it is to find 12v lights without a button or battery.
I might copy the shroud he put on them, rn i just have some foil tape as a brim looking thing to keep from blinding folks as I approach.
Haha woopsie! They’re coming out officially very soon. Just finalizing the mount designs for all of the trucks I’ll be supporting. Should be a couple weeks out at most.
The shroud you speak of is more of an extended heat sink / lens protector, it doesn’t impeded the light beam. The light beam is managed entirely by the lens. In the first days of alpha testing my mounts I had a set come off and the shroud protected the lenses from damage
My plan is to make something similar to what you have but extend it forward, the led output on the light im using is too bright on full without something to protect the traffic coming against me without aiming them to low to be effective at lighting the path ahead of me. My sweet spot is about 150’ as anyone far enough that it is shining up at isn’t blinded but if they get closer the masking effect blocks the light for them.
Oh smart, I bet you could 3d print something like that pretty easily too. Do you find that the reflective metal helps with redirecting the beam or would something matte also work?