For most linear brakes, set Motor Min and Batt min to the same value (e.g. -40A). Batt Min is more relevant at higher speeds while Motor Min becomes more dominant at lower speeds.
In your case: At full speed you only get 20A of braking power, while at lower speeds braking goes up to around 30+A and close to stand still to around 50A.
Read more here: Optimum Vesc settings? - #41 by Trampa
But when braking, the current will charge the battery, the excess current will not damage the battery?
Your battery needs to be big enough to allow proper braking. Otherwise you make a big mistake and put the battery life over yours.
I have 12s 18000mAh 18650 Samsung Q30
As I understand it, I can’t do less Batt min -20…
and i don’t understand if i have two VESCs, Bat min -20A should i bet on each VESC or should i halve on each Batt min -10A?
i have mine set to -69A per side, essentially plugged into a 1p pack, i’ve had little to no issues
putting it back in, the amount of time you actually go over the battery charge limit is very very short, so the chances of causing damage to a pack are minimal
It’s fine
Use whatever braking strength you need for your ride to perform how you need it to. Unless you’re towing a car down a hill, your cells probably will be fine.
Though I believe there is a phenomenon where if the state of charge is in the upper percent or so, higher charge rates can be significantly worse. But this is just an edge case, IMHO getting to a speed high enough for that to matter would likely bring your SOC down to level where that’s no longer mattering.
But aside from that, -20A battery current is a lot of braking, if you’re talking about -20A per motor battery current with at least 2 motors, that is a very significant amount of high-speed brake already.
Yes, -20A feel very strong brakes.
How can I make the board stand still when pressing the brake? I have to use Curren Smart Revers?
“Current” mode will allow you to completely stop, but there isn’t a VESC mode I’m aware of that does exactly what I think you want.
It would be pretty awesome if the hold mode vedder showed in one of his latest videos would be implemented at some point.
Yeah the position tracking through the new silent hfi is really cool. That would make a cool throttle control option
Would the same hold logic be possible with regular old hall sensors as well?
Halls are not accurate enough. As5047P or silent HFI are. Hand brakes also consume energy when they are engaged!
Which one is the best mode: Current Hyst Reverse With Brake or Current Smart Reverse?
“Best” is a difficult word. There is no best mode.
I prefer Current Hyst Reverse With Brake on streets.
If you ever ride switch, you might prefer Current.
If you have bindings, you might prefer Current or Current Smart Reverse.
You probably should not use any duty cycle mode on an esk8.
I set up my VESC using the PC version of the VESC Toolsz
When I want to create a profile from the current values, it shows incredibly fast speed. Maybe he doesn’t read correctly?
What is this gyroscopic effect for? how can the space sensor be used in an electric skateboard?
These values do not change.
I’ve been logging my rides with VESCtool’s RT log functionality. I’m confused about what these are: current_in and current_in_setup. For my latest ride, these two had maximums of 52 and 90 respectively.
I have a p42a battery 12s4p, 10awg wires, xt90s connector. Stormcore 60D+ is configured to 75A battery current and 75A motor current in VESCtool.
I would therefore expect max 150A amp draw but I’m not seeing that, what gives?
On this ride I accelerated full throttle up a hill and went full throttle on a straight road maxing at 69 km/h.
Those are maximums, and they’re kind of high. You may rarely, if ever, reach them.
So what are the values 52(current_in) and 90(current_in_setup)? What was my max amp draw during this ride?
Are these values, based on my settings, normal then? The board rides great, I don’t believe it’s too weak, I’m just confused by these values. I drew 52*2=104A max from battery during this ride? Seems a long way off 150A max setting still.
I hope battery is not bottlenecking (wires), but hopefully that’s not the case. Already did around 400km with these settings and everything is still fine, battery/deck doesn’t seem to warm up.
You might be confusing battery current and motor current.
