This plate that locks the axle to the rotor can gets pounded till there is quite a few degrees of rotational slop. This actually helps a lot on startup from a standstill allowing some erpm on the motor before any torque is applied to the belt.
It would be an interesting idea to play around with limited slip clutches on the drive system, allowing the belt to survive geting spun up in a jump. Ir just a much more aggressive version of the sloppy axle allowing near a full rotation idk.
on the v1 wheel they got ripped up, this is how I finally got a wheel.
I tried to remove the rubber but ended up cutting it at the holes. SBX wheel freshie v1 tread cut off.STEP (217.1 KB)
this I will use to cast my own tread onto, thinking a single use mold will be easiest.
that is about as much as it cost to get a set from SB, I remember them going for $40 a set or something.
So I would only want to make my own if I could really make them signifigantly stronger like making the outside be metal with a plastic part insulating the copper.
Now one does not want to detect, flux linkage detection failed it refuses to spin up. I manually copied over the detection results from the good side and it has trouble starting up usually going the wrong direction, then when riding this can be sudden brakes. To be clear this is after cleaning and checking brush heights.
This is my attempt at a better gasket for the top case to give enough room for batt packs and the Discs. The small gasket was not enough so I went ahead and did a huge one that can also allow higher voltage.
Took me a very long time to go from thinking of using the BN idler to actually trying to fit it on. First time it was too tight because the motor would not slide back but I got it to the right tension. The belt can be a bit warm compared to without the idler after a few mi so life may be reduced some but stretching and skipping issues reduced.
This topic is amazing, I would love to make some questions. Have you been able to make your own caster wheel system? Mine broke and I need to change it(not only the wheel, everyhting). Leiftech doesn’t produce their products anymore so I have a big problem. Being capable of replacing it would be huge for me.
I like what I did on this model with the 8mm key shaft and hex shaft adapters that fit the same as SBX wheels.
What I want to try that I did not think of is making a gearbox using the gears that are sold for the hex wheels/axle adapters.
In order to do that in a single reduction stage, the module needs to be wider to fit the gear next to the wheel without mods. Using spacers to accommodate both these ideas in the same parts might work.
On a grander scale, the entire plate that screws onto the center module part could be a sealed gearbox.
Probably should test how long HTD5M belts last before gears.