Because I need more problems in my life and my motto is only mod completes, never DIY. 
It was in working condition but a little weathered (to me). Tearing it down to figure out it’s flaws.
Electronics are clean, no dirt or water seem to have gotten past the weather seals. Passed there. Will go into details later. (Likely bypassing BMS/charge only). The 30Q cells should be trouble free by themselves (I hope)
Onto the motors. The famous water cooling feature. A 165x6mm heat pipe with questionable thermal compound, laid horizontally (no gravity assist). Not sure where the vapor and condensation chambers are, but if it is the usual type with each on opposite ends, all it will do is transfer heat from one motor to the other. (lol?) I didn’t do the math on this but from what I remember a long time ago, it is not nearly big enough to make much of a difference. (that’s what she said)
Motor winding reminds me of a high school motor I wound by hand for a science project. This is likely the source of the heat problem. Stator fill is terrible, winding is absolutely inconsistent and not up to par for the power of these motors. Air gap at 0.5mm is not great but not bad either, so the problem ultimately lies in the winding and the heavily armored and sealed motor can. This looks like a case of okay design on paper and bad execution in manufacturing. What you don’t see is the horrible wobbling tolerance of the casted motor plate. This part should’ve been turned on a lathe for true. I might end up taking it down half a mil and shimming it to true. Lack of grease or seal also introduced rust to the mating surfaces from water ingress.
Edit1
Rear axle:
Machining quality is okay, A couple random plunge artifacts, nothing really worth noting. But everything is sharp as hell. Which brings to this:
That’s gonna be a no from me dawg. The sharp joint where the phase wires go through the trucks. Will it eventually cut through and short the phase wires? I don’t want to find out. I’ll sleeve it with teflon or harness tape.
This just makes me go huh. All my guesstimate numbers points to the clamp strength being far stronger than needed, YET, the fact that the cantilever axles being clamped by 8 M5 bolts (with the center 4 doing the most of the work) threaded directly into aluminium just makes me uneasy. If the clamp comes loose, only thing retaining the axle is a tiny flange and the motor wires. Make damn sure those bolts never come loose.
Edit2
While reconsidering whether I want to rewind the stator, I started looking at it in more detail. Which brings to this observation:
Enertion, WTF is that??? Hall and temp pcb flexsealed to the motor by (crappily) slotting the halls into stator slots?
Aite sure I guess. Rewinding might be more trouble than it’s worth.
Edit3
A quick attempt to true the motor shell, the face plate had to be taken almost a mil off center for the shell to spin wobble free.
Edit 4
It came to my conclusion that this motor is just bad design. It has way too much power with no way to off the heat. Surrounded on all sides by 4mm of some kind of steel alloy and covered in PU, seated on a steel axle and completely sealed, it’s essentially an insulated oven. The vapor rod does essentially nothing as by the time the heat reaches the center of the axle, the stator and sensor is already overheating.
Rewinding to a lower kV would lower temps, but also lower performance. Rewinding with better fill may yield another 5% in efficiency, but ultimately, 1000+ watts in each hub that, realistically, could dissipate the heat from maybe half of that power.
I don’t want to neuter the power of these motors, so that leaves one conclusion, the motor needs more cooling. Considered the options like running statorade in the shells, but drawing the heat to the can does nothing when there is still a thick layer of PU insulating it. So ultimately, this motor needs to be vented.
Starting with coating the stator in dielectric varnish - this should offer some protection against water ingress and dust.
Throwing in a set of new bearings, got some nice Enduro cartridges on hand
Edit 5
Something I noted while I considering how to remold these wheels, a decent amount of the chunking is starting from the inside lip, where the PU over extends past the motor can. My guess is the motor can is essentially acting like a shear on the ground and just slicing up the PU, which starts the chunking process
Will be noting to not mold the PU extensively past the motor can without some kind of support at least.
Edit 6
Finished the template and went to town on motor cooling. 10x6mm holes on both sides, plenty of airflow now. Waiting on a D140 BMS, VX2 remote and currently in progress of attempt 1 of molding the outwheels.
Edit 7
Pulling out the BMS and various parts. The PCB is very cleanly made. Although the PCB mounting is questionable to me. Suspended in the middle only by a few bolts, leaving the end sections hanging, likely could introduce a lot of vibration in the PCB, possibly causing much unnecessary stress on the traces and components. This can likely accelerate the failure of the part. some foam could’ve drastically helped here.
Here’s my take on the final conclusion to the raptor: It is my belief that this originally was genuinely made to be a quality product. Who ever was behind the design of everything from the PCBs, to the layout, to the hubs, made it with the intention to be great. It is very easy to tell when a product is designed to be cheaply and quickly produced, and this shows no sign. From the grade 8 bolts to the conformal coating, this board was made with good intentions. But that is where it stops. Good intentions alone does not build a board. Corners were cut since the design made it off paper. From the not fully populated BMS, using a single fet, to the hubs that clearly did not go through enough testing, the off center casting, it’s pretty clear, the Raptor failed because it is the result of cutting corners in production to lower cost, and the consequences of that was not fully tested before going to market. Sometimes a quality, reliable product costs a certain amount to make, and it is impossible to make it cheaper AND great. Perhaps the board was initially priced too cheaply. Or perhaps Jason got too greedy. I didn’t do the math.
From this point I think it’s appropriate to turn this now into a build/rebuild thread. Fix what I can and see if I end up with something good. Nickname: Valkyrie.
Edit 8:
Cleaning up the wires and BMS swap while working out the urethane molds. Got rid of some failure points, will seal with silicon later.
