Anyone use these? Considering using them for a 4wd 6374 12s build because they are cheap and god knows how long its going to take for my Unitys to arrive…
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they’re great. for a 4wd they’d be perfect. Don’t use more than 40 battery amps though. motor amps you could probably hit 100a but you wont need that on a 4wd. also cooling is a bit difficult. just leave the shrink on
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I’m thinking 4wd I shouldn’t go much over 30a per esc, so should be pretty right with that, for cooling, could they be attached to some little heatsinks fairly easily?
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and will they cope with 12s?
The flipsky vesc mini is more reliable from what i have heard.
The turnigy veac used outdated hardware and has very poor qc before being sold,
Hobbykings warranty system is also a scam most the time. Almost every faulty product is never refunded or reshipped.
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any sort of warranty on the flipsky? can’t say I’ve seen anything great written about their customer service…
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Ive dealt with them several times and they have been pretty generous with how they resolve problems.
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good to know. will look some more into them
not sure if you’ve ever dealt with HobbyKing but I’ve never heard of anyone who says that.
@glyphiks not sure about 12s as they are vesc 4’s. some people get lucky but it isn’t ideal
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The Flipsky 4.12 is what is known for reliability. The mini 4.20 is gash.
Just to make sure you guys buy the right one.
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Pls review vesc value vesc from big retailer.
Under the three wires going out man neg wire gasket it reads ON/OFF LED GND… Red for GND? I guess it is a switch so who cares.
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Who gets the invoice? 
IMO, those connections can go anywhere. They might not have any relationship to the +/- symbols and main connections near them. See other post below.
I’ll pay you in compliments about your calves and/or lack of abdominal stretch marks from childbirth.
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I’ve changed my mind…does indeed look like the red wire is connected to the copper plane for the main NEG connection. I guess red is GND in this case.
Because that never causes any problems. 
Though technically, as you mentioned, if it’s for a switch it might not matter (depending on the LED setup). Still a terrible practice though.
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Initial thoughts:
It’s two 4.12s slapped together, with the same terrible mosfet pcb sandwich. It’s going to get hot fast.
Do you feel up for a foc_openloop test? I’m slowly building a database and I’m interested in the results of this one.
It’s the same size as two OG focboxes. I’d take those over this, but if it goes in something low powered it should be OK… and it is still a good price
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From my first look here I think it would be really wise to put a blower fan on the plastic housing, for the easiest solution. Or CNC custom heatsink/case on the other side of spectrum.
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