the problem is mboards, but yeah.
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A few more ways to keep the costs down -
Buy cells from battery hookup or battery clearing house. Battery cells makes a huge difference in both performance and range
Single 6374/6384/63100 motor (one esc, pulley, mount, belt, etc)
Dual 5065 or 6355 motors
Sale threads on the forum like this one
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that would interfere with RF signal, maybe just GF instead?
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If you choose a proper enclosure and actually purchase good motors and good parts, I’ll build you a battery for the cost of parts.
If you’re in the US, that is.
I’d have to see actual pictures of the parts, that you’ve actually acquired them, and what enclosure layout it is, but I’m willing to help so that you don’t end up with something unsafe for your first board.
It’d be my good deed for the holidays, and an investment into the community. At least, in hopes that the battery isn’t the factor that leads to catastrophic failure.
Best of luck with the build.
Listen to the people here, they’re smart and seasoned. And have kept me from many unintended fires.
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If this is the case, then I highly recommend you make that, and make sure it’s strong enough to bash around and flex, before you begin purchasing the other components, aside from a deck and helmet. Jump on the deck. Make sure the bolt holes don’t crack. Because they will probably crack. People use fiberglass a lot for reasons. Glass fiber also doesn’t block radio like carbon fiber does and it’s a good bit more flexible.
However, this is a better option if you don’t buy an enclosure (which limits deck choice)
Last thing you want is to have a battery and try to find an enclosure that works. (Unless you lay up your own fiberglass enclosure) Do that the other way around. Tell the battery builder how big your space is.
Of course you can make the enclosure with certain common battery sizes in mind, I just wouldn’t buy that battery yet
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I have all those parts you mention because my second hobby is fpv drone. Lol the only thing that’s new to me is the spot welding part. I do have a dead 18650 battery, so I could practice. It just the battery layout is something I need to practice . I’m going for 10s 3p. I want it low profile as possible.
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What country are you in?
Usa
Ok, i Will try fiberglass. You are right about the rc part. Carbon does block signal. I’m going to learn from the post you provided.
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This is an incredibly generous offer. 
I would probably strongly consider that. @TheBoardGarage is a long time member here.
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Putting electrodes on an 18650 battery and welding some nickel to it is the easy part.
Determining the correct nickel thickness and shape, series connection wire sizes and type, isolating p groups, protecting the can near the positive terminal, designing in flex, and not damaging the cell by incorrectly welding the negative terminal is the hard part.
But we all start somewhere. Reading through the million posts in that battery building club thread would be a good start to gaining that knowledge… but it’s hard to pass up a free battery build from an experienced builder.
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… And an excellent battery builder.
@TheBoardGarage can advise you on the best choice to achieve this but it will either be braided, tinned copper or several smaller gauge silicone wire, the latter of which would be superior imo. 3x 20 awg would he about right for the series connections.
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I would strongly prefer multiple pieces of silicone-insulated high-strand-count copper wire (sometimes called “superworm”) over copper braid. I’d use 16AWG or 14AWG though
I have a brand new 12s12p M35a battery available for sale! Has roughly 75 miles on it, which was used for testing.
From your proto?
lets not derail this thread
Yup!
Dude, 30 cells (what OP is looking for) vs. 144 cells(your 12s12p). C’mon, really? I agree with @Evwan, please don’t derail, especially when OP is not even looking for what you’re selling. Good luck with sale though.
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#foundthereddituser
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My favorite cheap enclosure method is the one shared in this thread:
Also, where did you find a deal on 10 pairs of XT30, XT60 and XT90 all for 8$? I want that! 
+1 for Brian’s list for the order in which you should pick your parts
+1 for buying a used battery rather than building your own, it definitely is cheaper, unless you can find someone to lend you a spot welder and you don’t value your time at all lol
+1 for using a loop key instead of an antispark to save money
And I think a good single drive setup is the best performance per dollar option. Means 1 less ESC, 1 less motor, 1 less drivetrain. Also you can save money by using a non-esk8 front truck.
Ambitious goal, I wish you luck!
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