@monsterbuilder Truck angle seems to be at 17 degrees.
Is that the angle of the deck? If so, what’s the angle of the baseplate itself? Are you using 50’ baseplates?
Gotcha, didn’t know you were running channels. Your previous picture showed RKP, so I was a bit confused.
17’ might be fine for the rear. You will probably want to use an angled shim for the front to increase the angle.
@monsterbuilder yea, I was just showing the history. Of what I was going to do with this board on another setup. Sorry for the confusion.
Take two Hamburger baskets and cut off the tabs for the enclosure
Then cut off the ends of each one.
Then I tape them together.
Then epoxy the two together to make the enclosure
I put scotch tape around the sides to keep the epoxy from dripping through the basket while layering the carbon fiber.
Spray the basket with upholstery adhesive.
Cut the carbon fiber twill, enough to over cover the basket.
Then nip and tuck as needed.
Take Philip head screw and attach twill covered basket to masked board.
Laminate thin coat over basket and let dry
Fucking hamburger baskets man, how do they work?
@sleepless They work well like any other enclosure. The shape is already there the width and when I screw the basket to the board I get the curvecher of the deck. I do this very often with most of my builds as you will soon see.
I have to fill the old insert holes from the previous build of the deck and fill the holes on the basket from it being screwed while laminating.
While the epoxy dries and cures I’m going to router a channel for wires to go from batteries to ESC case to the back tail of the deck
After making the channel for the 10 gauge wires I will epoxy them in.
Taping the deck to the board so I can drill holes so I can screw enclosure to the board.
Is just one layer of carbon and epoxy strong enough to protect the battery from road debris?
This is 10000000 IQ wow I love it
@dasman I’m not finished coating the enclosure. The 1 layer of carbon fiber is sufficient, the basket itself adds a layer of protection. I’ve done it this way many times it is tough as hell when the process is complete.
After I drill holes, I put in M4x10mm thread inserts, placed them nice and snug but not to tight and flush to the board
I taped the side of the deck to paint the topside, when dried I will put a coat of epoxy for the Hydra Logo. Really don’t care about making the whole thing smooth, just the center where the red paint will be exposed.
Trying to figure out which logo print to use.
I chose to use this black and white to save on ink but it will look like one of the top two.
I used a spray adhesive to contact the back of the grip tape where I will cut out the hydra logo
Cutting this logo took some time so in between I layer some table top epoxy on deck top to dry and cure while I continued to cut out logo
After it cures I layed the outer part of the grip tape
Then I put in the center, and now it’s ready to transfer parts from old setup to new Hydra Deck
Marking to drill holes for spring tension pins
Put another coat of epoxy on basket enclosure
You can see where I epoxyed the old holes and where the resent holes are.
Going to drill holes for charge ports
Holes for kill switch
Assembled the parts to see what it will look like. Still need to connect wires, voltage display and battery and to reloctite mechanical parts, going to take a break.
I wanted to use this battery, because of the ESC I’m using it won’t work properly. So now I have to use an 8s set up I have 8 2s lipo batteries. They will be perfect.
Making a cut out for voltage display.
Replacing and blue loctite any missing grub screws
Desided to run the battery. It won’t allocate when I first turn it on, had to keep flipping the switch to make it work. It’s because the battery is a 10s and the ESC require 3s to 8s. I have a set of lipos I can use.
How’s the build going did you figure out the esc/controller issues?