I have a brand new 12s12p M35a battery available for sale! Has roughly 75 miles on it, which was used for testing.
From your proto?
lets not derail this thread
Yup!
Dude, 30 cells (what OP is looking for) vs. 144 cells(your 12s12p). C’mon, really? I agree with @Evwan, please don’t derail, especially when OP is not even looking for what you’re selling. Good luck with sale though.
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#foundthereddituser
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My favorite cheap enclosure method is the one shared in this thread:
Also, where did you find a deal on 10 pairs of XT30, XT60 and XT90 all for 8$? I want that! 
+1 for Brian’s list for the order in which you should pick your parts
+1 for buying a used battery rather than building your own, it definitely is cheaper, unless you can find someone to lend you a spot welder and you don’t value your time at all lol
+1 for using a loop key instead of an antispark to save money
And I think a good single drive setup is the best performance per dollar option. Means 1 less ESC, 1 less motor, 1 less drivetrain. Also you can save money by using a non-esk8 front truck.
Ambitious goal, I wish you luck!
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I suppose this is only realistic with new parts
This board was 500 bucks (minus davega)
i ruined the battery by leaving the loop key in and am rebuilding it rn
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It’s still realistic because it’s often not fast at all to scour the parts markets daily until the items you need come up for sale at a discount. So that’s “good” and “cheap” but not “fast”.
I disagree but this derailing too much
The thread title is “Trying to build my first esk8 for cheap.At the sametime, High quality.”
That’s not offtopic at all.
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This motor’s performance is underwhelming. Better go with flipsky BH 6354 190kv.
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Not if you fully enclose everything, if the enclosure isn’t enclosed. The electronics are on the bottom so you’ll still be able to get signal if you don’t put carbon on the enclosure
The thing I learned from building my first board (well finishing ) is however much you want to put into it. Cheap or not. There will be extras that is crucial and will put the budget more on the ropes so that’s another thing, make sure you got everything you need and not missing anything
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Besides the part about it being silly to use a radio-blocking material, on a vehicle where your life depends on the radio signal. Besides that — glass fiber is actually more flexible and less rigid and has properties better suited to skateboards than carbon fibers which are extremely rigid and inflexible.
You’re basically saying “put the radio blocking stuff only partially around the antenna” when your life depends on that radio. And also when the radio transparent stuff just seems to work better for this anyway. So why use the carbon at all?
This discussion constantly comes up over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over again.
Carbon sounds and looks cooler, this is the real reason methinks.
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Carbon is more dependable for less flex if your supposedly made of money and can buy batteries left and right (for my case lipos) minimal flex is appropriate but not to the point where the board flexes and scrapes the ground like a low rider. Possibly damaging the electronics in the process. There’s been some people on the forum that has used cf or unidirectional cf (what I’m using) and haven’t had any issues. If you incase the enclosure with cf, yes it messes with the signal but if you have foam over the opening, the enclosure not covered in cf it should be fine. Based on what I’ve been told
There are also people who stand on top of hot air balloons and don’t fall off.
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I’m not convinced that should be the basis for advising someone about something that can impact their safety. 
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in short, no carbon
specially for not $500 or less
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It’s just a suggestion. If he makes an enclosure with carbon fiber infused. That’s the possibility if he’s looking for appearance or safety. It’s the choice in the end if you’re depending on safety or making your board look bad ass. Same time knowing what the possible consequences are if you go the bad ass route more