I set traction control ON. 90A as battery max and motor max. But it acts like it spares amps…
It’s just a click if you have a metr module. Worth a try without traction control.
2 Likes
Somes statements after few months using this build :
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Trampa HS11 16 ply deck lacks stiffness with the weight of the four 6Ah lipos in the middle of the board. I weigh 85 kg. This makes the board feels highly unstable at medium speed (25-30 km/h) on bumpy paths. I wonder if there’s a way to get rid of torsional deformations of this deck. I mean a MBS wooden deck with tires not too inflated feels way more reactive and precise than this type of deck, without abusing too much my knees.
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This board is great on two types of ways :
- roads and I wouldn’t have expected that. The extreme flex of the deck that I have criticized above makes the board feels like a flying carpet. 10 inches megastar wheels help, but at high speed (around 50 km/h) I have to balance the megastars better because I get a lot of vibrations.
- real off roading and it’s amazing to explore places where you’d have never come with a 2WD e-mtbd. Low speed, going through quite big stones and balancing your body to avoid falling. Front motors must have a closed cover or they’ll get a lot of grass inside.
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The axle of Maytech 6374 motors is a bit too short for Trampa gear drive system mainly because of the thickness of motor adaptors. Motor pulleys move a little around motor axles in spite of keyways and loctite 648, but at the same time not enough to remove those pulleys easily. I think grease enters inside the pulley by the side, and through the keyway path. I think Turnigy 6374 would fit the system better.
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Weight is a problem, and around 25 kg threaten your knees when you fall. Light is right, especially for a dynamic ride (turning, etc).
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I kill kingpin bushings very fast with this build and it’s a pain to replace them, because my ESCs are above the tails of the deck. I don’t know if this short lifespan is due to the weight of the board or off road rides.
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It’s very hot here and this AWD build is the only one I can ride now in summer without hitting Motor Temp Cutoff.
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I like Trampa gear drive design. Conicle truck adaptor (clamping system) avoids shifting. I can adjust backlash without disassembling the drive. Hitting stones with the housing tubs tends to increase backlash and IMO it’s less worse than decreasing it (which grinds tooth of slave gears).
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Bash guards are very effective, but forget 8 inches wheels, if you don’t want housing tubs to wear off quickly.
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If I had only one e-mountainboard, it would be a 2WD, mainly because the problem of increased weight with AWD. It may have 80100 APS battle hardened motors.
4 Likes
For more stiffness you could try to add this
Or do a top and bottom cf skin job. Should definitely add up some stiffness.
2 Likes
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CDFOnC2KQPy/?igshid=1kk3czvdxecco
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CDFHBXJqN_P/?igshid=lsw5fy77c13f
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CDFLLKrKT9K/?igshid=v15sib84dgeu
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CDFNLGZqtZG/?igshid=1rn11k6n02tuy
I swapped SPRINGS to BARRELS.
It’s way more stable on bumpy soft off-road.
There’s a cons for real off-road : you loose the ability of springs to put you back to your initial direction after a wheel hit something.
YET, I got trouble with barrels 
:
I didn’t notice that at the moment. It’s front truck.
I was able to put this barrel in correct position putting all my weight at the side of the board.
I’m using the spring ajusters of the spring system, as @Trampa said it is a possibility on the old forum.
Actually, when installing the barrels, I didn’t get how the system works with the Top Bolts and the two different types of washers!? I mean the Top Bolts (M4) are thinner than the hole in the baseplate (M8). I don’t understand what the washers are supposed to do…
And this looks weird to me :
The bolt screws into the top metal plug of the barrel and should prevent exactly what happened to you.
Anyways that was quite a big lean to get that barrel off 
well done 
3 Likes
Ac[quote=“DavidC, post:55, topic:16295”]
Top Bolts (M4)
[/quote]
Actually M5 (sorry I can’t edit the post 
)
Hm, I had only one size coming with mine always and I placed them between deck and bolt head.
1 Like
But why are they needed? They just float between the head of the bolt and the deck?
To give a bigger surface for the bolt head I would say.
I swapped the stock bolts to some longer m5 bolts.
Maybe this picture does help a bit to understand how it’s meant to be.
5 Likes
OK this looks like a finished product now! Well done! 
1 Like
Maybe one additional comment to it.
The trampa barrels system isn’t meant to be tightened down like with springs.
There is only one position/tension possible because the down barrel plug is fixed to the truck and the upper barrel plug is fixed to the base plate.
Hope that makes sense somehow
2 Likes
I had to fix some things with TRAMPA barrels bolt kit :
First you need longer bolts :
Barrels can be compressed but will not extent so you need long bolts or the barrels will go out of the retainers on the opposite side when you lean.
Then you need these nylon spacers, because you don’t want that the thead of M5 bolts scrape the M8 holes at the top of the baseplate.
I really wonder why TRAMPA doesn’t include things like that into the complete it… It’s not expensive!
The M5 washers will help you to put back the nylon spacers into the holes, because they’ll move a little bit when you ride.
I wanted to use this kind of spring between the head of the bolt and the nylon spacer, but I couldn’t find one of the good size (the one below is too long).
3 Likes
Regarding general 4WD management :
Is it a problem for battery management if two dual ESCs that are not connected with can bus take power from the same battery? In my build I made the circuits separate.
@rpasichnyk : is it conceivable that two ESCs that have METR PRO modules would communicate with each other via these UART modules, as they would via can bus?
If both dual ESCs take power from the same battery, is it possible to deactivate one of the dual ESCs so as to save power, without damaging deactivated ESC or battery? (I mean deactivated ESC is powered on but doesn’t send power to motors)
2 Likes
yeah it’s fine but bluetooth will only track consumption for the VESCs it is connected to I believe
You would want the motor to help overcome it’s own resistance not drag.
AWD and power conservation don’t go together, just carry more capacity.
Take care in case the bolts go through the barrel bud plug you might damage the barrel with the sharp corner of the bolt when turning.
2 Likes
Yes I thought about the case of low battery situation. Drag is high with gear drive but not that much with chain drive. I think running 4WD with front of rear drive deactivated is very bad for the dual ESC if this dual ESC is disconnected from battery.
I think it’s bad also if the battery connected to this dual ESC is full, because maybe you will go beyond battery max capacity.
I’m not sure it’s not a problem if the deactivated dual ESC is connected to the same battery as the working dual ESC.
Actually you can’t because barrel retainer is threaded on 20 mm only. That’s the same length as the thread on my bolt (I was lucky because this was not specified on the website).
1 Like
Where did you get your batteries from? I just ordered my board today with a 2020 monster box and need to get batteries.
But check if their size fits the monster box, depending on how many you want to put inside.
There is also this model :