I got two ABS_OVER_CURRENT faults climbing hills :
Here are my current settings :
NO LIMIT 4.1 firmware
Considering that the ESCs keep being cool, is there any risk increasing ABSOLUTE MAXIMUM CURRENT to 275 A?
1 Like
The limit of the fets is 250A if I recall it right.
Wouldn’t set the absolute max higher than that.
1 Like
According to Flipsky :
- Current: Continuous 100A single, total 200A , Instantaneous current 400A per single, total 800A for system instantaneous current.
I’d stick to FET specs though…
1 Like
The more important question is why you get this faults. Do you get it from both sides or only one?
Maybe one of your motors just jump out of the row, or even worth, there is an issue with one or both escs.
I would also check my solder joints, just to be on the save side.
2 Likes
Solder joints are OK.
I was climbing a hilly part of the forest at low speed.
I don’t understand very well. It says motor max current 53.A on this part of the ride. 17:48:55 is the red area. Fault says I hit 266.9A. Maybe strator saturation I don’t know.
1 Like
I’ve experienced issues with latest VESC firmware 4.1 :
- repeated ABS_OVER_CURRENT faults ;
- wooble at 60-80%, very difficult to handle, that I’ve never had before.
I had none of these problems with 3.65 firmware.
I changed to ACKMANIAC 3.102 firmware. This is way better now. No fault, in spite of lower absolute max current. I also feel more power and I get more battery range. No wooble (and I didn’t change anything to springs).
1 Like
I had the same wobble issue always at the same speed. Also upgraded back to Ackmaniac and no more issue
3 Likes
Time to increase tyre size. Those bash guards are strong!
I love these tyres. https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/4000109557483.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.328e6c370VZ0rA I no longer hit stones in the forest. A bit less grip than 9" Mud-Pluggers but good grip yet.
Nonetheless, I do not understand that I cannot climb steeper slopes, when I do not reach neither Battery Max Current nor Motor Max Current. Wheels wound’t turn anymore… Why motors don’t try to swallow more amps!?
6 Likes
Can’t look the metr link as it’s blocked in my country, but did you set your vescs up with traction control?
If yes, give it a try without, might get better.
2 Likes
I set traction control ON. 90A as battery max and motor max. But it acts like it spares amps…
It’s just a click if you have a metr module. Worth a try without traction control.
2 Likes
Somes statements after few months using this build :
-
Trampa HS11 16 ply deck lacks stiffness with the weight of the four 6Ah lipos in the middle of the board. I weigh 85 kg. This makes the board feels highly unstable at medium speed (25-30 km/h) on bumpy paths. I wonder if there’s a way to get rid of torsional deformations of this deck. I mean a MBS wooden deck with tires not too inflated feels way more reactive and precise than this type of deck, without abusing too much my knees.
-
This board is great on two types of ways :
- roads and I wouldn’t have expected that. The extreme flex of the deck that I have criticized above makes the board feels like a flying carpet. 10 inches megastar wheels help, but at high speed (around 50 km/h) I have to balance the megastars better because I get a lot of vibrations.
- real off roading and it’s amazing to explore places where you’d have never come with a 2WD e-mtbd. Low speed, going through quite big stones and balancing your body to avoid falling. Front motors must have a closed cover or they’ll get a lot of grass inside.
-
The axle of Maytech 6374 motors is a bit too short for Trampa gear drive system mainly because of the thickness of motor adaptors. Motor pulleys move a little around motor axles in spite of keyways and loctite 648, but at the same time not enough to remove those pulleys easily. I think grease enters inside the pulley by the side, and through the keyway path. I think Turnigy 6374 would fit the system better.
-
Weight is a problem, and around 25 kg threaten your knees when you fall. Light is right, especially for a dynamic ride (turning, etc).
-
I kill kingpin bushings very fast with this build and it’s a pain to replace them, because my ESCs are above the tails of the deck. I don’t know if this short lifespan is due to the weight of the board or off road rides.
-
It’s very hot here and this AWD build is the only one I can ride now in summer without hitting Motor Temp Cutoff.
-
I like Trampa gear drive design. Conicle truck adaptor (clamping system) avoids shifting. I can adjust backlash without disassembling the drive. Hitting stones with the housing tubs tends to increase backlash and IMO it’s less worse than decreasing it (which grinds tooth of slave gears).
-
Bash guards are very effective, but forget 8 inches wheels, if you don’t want housing tubs to wear off quickly.
-
If I had only one e-mountainboard, it would be a 2WD, mainly because the problem of increased weight with AWD. It may have 80100 APS battle hardened motors.
4 Likes
For more stiffness you could try to add this
Or do a top and bottom cf skin job. Should definitely add up some stiffness.
2 Likes
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CDFOnC2KQPy/?igshid=1kk3czvdxecco
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CDFHBXJqN_P/?igshid=lsw5fy77c13f
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CDFLLKrKT9K/?igshid=v15sib84dgeu
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CDFNLGZqtZG/?igshid=1rn11k6n02tuy
I swapped SPRINGS to BARRELS.
It’s way more stable on bumpy soft off-road.
There’s a cons for real off-road : you loose the ability of springs to put you back to your initial direction after a wheel hit something.
YET, I got trouble with barrels 
:
I didn’t notice that at the moment. It’s front truck.
I was able to put this barrel in correct position putting all my weight at the side of the board.
I’m using the spring ajusters of the spring system, as @Trampa said it is a possibility on the old forum.
Actually, when installing the barrels, I didn’t get how the system works with the Top Bolts and the two different types of washers!? I mean the Top Bolts (M4) are thinner than the hole in the baseplate (M8). I don’t understand what the washers are supposed to do…
And this looks weird to me :
The bolt screws into the top metal plug of the barrel and should prevent exactly what happened to you.
Anyways that was quite a big lean to get that barrel off 
well done 
3 Likes
Ac[quote=“DavidC, post:55, topic:16295”]
Top Bolts (M4)
[/quote]
Actually M5 (sorry I can’t edit the post 
)
Hm, I had only one size coming with mine always and I placed them between deck and bolt head.
1 Like
But why are they needed? They just float between the head of the bolt and the deck?
