Trampa battery build cell layout + build thread

So I now I know that the Anti-Spark switch is from flipsky. (280A continuous rated, 800A burst)
Have you ever heard of them blowing up too?
It’s the updated version too

Yes they blow up and they for sure can’t handle 280A and 800A burst :joy:
You might be lucky with 10s but 12s will sooner or later fail. I mean you could be good all time, but I really wouldn’t risk it, especially if you have an e-switch in your bms.

Most anti spark switches available have the same issue.
You can read through some threads like this

And this

Which should help to understand why they fail.

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I’m running the board on 10s at the moment and have never had issues. But if u say 12s will be unsafe for the Anti-Spark I’ll use a loopkey instead I think. (In addition to the e-switch of the bms)

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I wouldn´t risk it, not with the flipsky and not on a mtb aaand not when i anyway have better options included in my bms.

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So do you guys have any other recommendations for the battery layout or connection between the cells? :slight_smile:

I can send you a couple of my antisparks to test with, they can handle 12S.

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Personally I don’t like uneven architecture you have for the left side of the battery box on that design. Since it looks like you have room for one more cell next to the connector, this was my idea on how I would lay out the pack in in order for the rest of the pack more ideal. The single cell empty space between 1 and 12 isn’t awesome, you could still do what you have in the original post, my main critique was the 4-7 rows. Please enjoy this pathetic drawing I whipped up in 3.2 seconds.

But with this he would need to add up the serial connections from pack 1-5 and 11 to 12 with some awg wire or multiple layer of nickel and if I understood right he doesn’t want to go this way.

Since he is building a rigid pack you can just add more nickel ontop, or even better buy whole nickle sheet and custom cut it to fit the entire surface area. You’d only have less than 3 direct strips on 5-6, 7-8, 9-10, 11-12, which could be remedied with a diagonal laying over top.

With this layout the bottom series connections would only have 2 nickel strips instead of 4 like my design.
The only time I use unly 2 strips is by connecting 5 and 6 and I intend to use stacked nickel strips.

Oh and yup, @Andy87 is right, I only wanna use thick cables at the plus and minus terminals of the complete pack. space is really limited, since I want to put the bms on top of the pack.

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what do you charge for them?
but I really think i don’t need one, i’ll use the bms e-switch

The bms just arrived. I’m thinking of opening it and checking for bad solder joints and so on. Don’t know if it’s a good idea tho :man_shrugging:t2:

if you can simply unscrew the housing I dont see why not :ok_hand:

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And I finally got around opening the Anti-Spark case

Looks pretty good to me ^^


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probably does nothing, but you could add a 3d cable to distribute the current abit better. They probably have a higher current verision where all 3 ables are soldered and decided to only solder 2 on the verision you have. Kind of destroys the entire point of having a good power layout. Should’ve used thinner cables instead of removing a fat one :upside_down_face:

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Yeah… that thing is gonna popcorn sooner or later.

Flipsky is working on a much better design atm that will address the popcorning issue.

I wouldn’t charge for the antispark, as long as you’re in the United States. (International shipping is expensive X_X).

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@Gamer43 I live I Germany unfortunately :confused:

Glued the parallel packs today, they will be wrapped in fishpaper once it arrives

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The battery pack is now fully insulated with fishpaper and it’s secured with high strength tape.


Left the nickel in saltwater overnight. It’s pure :smiley:
Here is the link to the product if anyone is interested in good priced nickel:
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/LRWBsiRW


This is some slotted nickel plated steel I bought a while ago but never used it.

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