Trampa battery build cell layout + build thread

Hello there,

I want to build an 18650 battery for my trampa.
It’s gonna be a 12S6P in this orientation.

I want the series and parallel connections to be as spread out as possible and not just use 1 nickelstrip for connecting the parallel groups in series like in a flat pack.
So far this is the best option I’ve come up with:

(Picture viewed from above)

Do you have any recommendations or maybe even a better solution?
Thanks c:

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Why not add 1 more row, make it a 12S7P and make it simple?

Honestly just curious.

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did you already get nickel? what thicc ness (Is it from Nkon? :wink:)

single nickel strip is ok for parallel groups usually, more than 1 would be needed for the series connections.

by the looks you will use two strips between the 1S6P packs which might be ok if you are welding .15mm
Do you want to make a drawing/draw on image with phone to show your idea of the series wiring?

@FourteeOZ Im making a 12S7P!! the cells from Nkon get here later today after I sleep
here is a teaser

Unfortunately I can’t :confused: there is an Anti-Spark switch in the place for the cells and I want to keep this enclosure.

Nickel is on its way (trusted AliExpress seller and gets tested in saltwater when it arrives), I got the cells yesterday from nkon xD
Yup I’m welding. 0.15mm x 12mm
Series wiring is also kinda shown in the excel drawing.

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that´s the thing…
if it´s for a trampa, why you need an antispark?
just use and xt90s or if you really want make yourself a loopkey.
with it the space is available and just do the 12s6p all over the case 6p back to back with the next 6p.


oh I see that, I am using Pre tabbed cell to save on initial cost, ill get a precision zapper eventually.
For parallel and series connections I’m soldering and possibly crimping 10Awg silicone wire to all 84 cells.
yay :weary:
the wire allows for more Flexible Series connections, but the Vruzend hexagonal cell holders will be totally rigid so no flexy pack.
I am uncertain of my series layout but will be requesting help when I have as much information as possible.

This would be the bottom side

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Anti-Spark was from the privious owner who used lipos

Just get a spotwelder and don’t pay nkon extra money for the tabs :smiley:
Cell holder wouldn’t fit, I tried :confused:


ok, but how that´s related?
i mean the question is only if you can take the anti.spark out or if it´s somehow mounted that it´s not posible to remove.

I mean you probably will need to replace the antispark anyway sooner or later.

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I mean it can’t hurt to have one :man_shrugging:t2:
It’s mounted pretty tough in there and filled with glue :confused:
Why tho?

It can if it light up in flames and take the battery with it :tipping_hand_man:

we had a time where this happened like once a day…
(i mean a burned or failed anti spark…luckily no fire from it every day)
with a bit luck the fets will just burn in open state and you can´t switch off your board :tipping_hand_man:

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Is it safer to go with a BMS E-Switch?
(Or do those have their own horror stories?)
Obviously loop key is the way to go on the low and very reliable.
I’m thinking about having key in addition to my BMS, probably a good idea so it can be off and charge.

Didn´t hear negative things about the E-switch which comes in a discharge BMS.


Oh shit… I’ll consider removing it then.
I’ll use a 12S 120A smart bms with Bluetooth and I think it has an e-switch too.

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Lol nkon is btw back ok. I had a new roll off nickel from them.


@Simeon why not go for a pelicase. It is fucking solid

And fits perfect a 12s7p


@pjotr47 I want to use the aluminium box that it came with from the previous owner. It’s pretty small but fits the 12S6P perfectly. It was built very good and I like it. I don’t want the effort to have a new and bulkier plastic enclosure


Looks awesome!

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