Well in that case it is passable haha I just haven’t seen it happen to a non-Chinese based manufacturing firm before
I know Dexter was trying to get a way to sell stuff in Europe but I didn’t think he had finished that deal yet 
Well in that case it is passable haha I just haven’t seen it happen to a non-Chinese based manufacturing firm before
I know Dexter was trying to get a way to sell stuff in Europe but I didn’t think he had finished that deal yet 
reselling is a good thing. Otherwise for us EU folks is always a mess to deal with custom and waiting forever. Steal a product is something I deeply hate. But as I always say. If they need to copy you to do something decent. Then they have already lost.
I can’t even imagine lol, and I agree
Are you using wide trucks?
You need to tighten your trucks it sounds like?
I have the same setup with no problems.
psychotiller 240, TB 110s but not a short deck 38 inches.
Stance is everything on TKPs, if you feel its not right then that is your problem no doubt.
Mabye, how long have you been riding your 110s?
@mutantbass I haven’t heard of them. Seems like they are just listing a bunch of products?
They could of bought but I don’t think so. Doesn’t seem familiar.
Nobody sells our wheels but us at this time.
I mean Ive found they needed to be ridden a bunch before really gripping, but in sure @b264 had a better idea on whats wrong.
They definitely kick out more than ABECs, but they recover so well it doesn’t matter to me.
most longboard wheels to varying extents exhibit behavior like this when brand new or still being broken in.
My 107 fly’s did the same thing for the first few weeks… almost took some really bad falls during carving at speed due to slipping out. This is why a lot of longboard wheels come “stone ground” or pre-worn… predictability and no break in period.
Best suggestion I can give you is grind off the shiny layer as much as possible so it’s matte. Either slide the crap out of them for a good session or three, hard carve for a few days to weeks, or spin your wheels while rubbing them with some higher grit sand paper, swap wheels and repeat.
Let us know if you still have the slipping once they are ground down, maybe take pictures.
For example:
Very grippy no slippage
Super unpredictable and constant slippage
I am guessing the shiny layer is slippery because of the mold release? Gotta get rid of that shiny layer!
Polyurethane once cured is generally not toxic, you shouldn’t have to worry about the dust.
With that said, using the wet-method is never a bad idea… maybe a damp cloth with the sand paper between damp cloth and wheels with the cloth extending past the sand paper to catch the dust.
@torqueboards do you have spare DD kegel adapters? I’d like to order some of those with your 110’s but I can’t find the part on the website. Thanks!
Hey everyone!
First I have to say these wheels are amazing. The grip is perfect and I don’t worry about small stones anymore.
I’ve unfortunately experienced one of my wheels being really load when spinning. I’ve tried to push the bearing in as much as possible and that didn’t help. It has been here since day one and I thought it may disappear after some use (70km or so I believe) but it didn’t. I haven’t felt any weird things when riding though.
Any other experienced the same before?
Have you swapped bearings to see if bearings are the issue?
Anybody using 40t pulley with TB110. What is the clearance like?
I was first considering 36t but would prefer 40t.
Can’t comment on it from experience but 40T should be more than fine
I got plenty of clearance using 40T on 97mm so it shouldn’t be an issue
Ok thanks,
I have 170KV, TB110, 10S4P. I’m concerned about Tourque, never mind top speed.
What would be the best option for pulleys:
I’m on 14/44 on 100mm wheels, 16/40 and 16/44 are popular ratios for big wheels.