I went with 90kV 
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75KV/90KV is better IMO. 60KV is a much lower top speed. 
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Brand new…weird motor sound. Sounded worst after the first couple of miles. Normal?
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While riding, the motor decided it was tired of working as expected, and is now back to its wonky behavior. Pretty similar to how it first acted after initial motor detection, but slightly different this time:
My guess is that hall sensors are acting up. Will open up enclosure after dinner and check with vesc-tool. Anyone experienced something like this before?
LOL!
Cleaned up the connectors, connected back together, it’s running fine again. Crisis averted! 
Leson learned: phase wires REQUIRE some slack, and electrical tape is not enough to keep them together.
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Bahahaha this is so funny… because exact exact same thing happened to me a week ago on our group ride 
. I decided to skip the tape because I was only gonna ride it once before I changed decks n stuff
Bad idea 
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Oof, I’ve been there before, electrical tape is definitely not enough.
One thing you can try is using a screwdriver to expand the bullet connector a little bit so it’s a really snug fit.
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It actually was a snug fit, it’s just that the enclosure is so close to the truck that assembling it must have pulled on the phase wires. Turns out every connector had pulled out by 5mm, this one just got completely loose after a few days of riding.
I put on duct-tape now which should hold it better, and will be super careful when mounting the enclosure. Also going to redo motor detection because there’s a chance this had already happened while I was still setting it up originally.
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@ahrav this happened to me the test ride after I decided to turn on traction control.
I was very confused why traction control was trying to kill me when I hit the throttle.
Thank god I got metr now…
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Bruh
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This
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Mt60 + zip ties to avoid this in the future.
Or just heatshrink the two connectors together and cut it if you need to take it off.
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Heatshrinked connectors can come loose pretty easily still, zip ties are a massive bitch to take off but they will never slip/break.
I use shoe ghoo you can get it from Walmart in the shoe section. Been using it on connectors on my racing drones for years now. Zero problems.
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Where do you zip tie bullet connectors to make them hold together?
This thread makes me question the heatshrink job I did
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MR60/MT60, not bullets 
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Has anyone tested the drives with 90mm wheels? I am curious about any clearance issues.
I use 110mm TB wheels, but the board feels dead when trying to carve, they are too big! Anyone else feels the same?
I think if you rode on smooth cycle paths without pebbles you wouldn’t have any issues.
One thing you could try is using a TKP or DKP truck in the front for more turning/carving. I’ve heard from people that it brings back the maneuverability lost by using big wheels.
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Tried the DD with 90mm Popocas, wow it was great. Carving was beautiful and climbing through steeps hills was super easy, accelerating uphill like nothing. Has more torque dan my dual 6355 belt I would say.
Had clearance issues few times, mainly when one wheel would enter a hole and the drive would stay on regular street level, and going up the curve diagonally, but I guess that has been a problem with 110s also.
Although I think I might have hit top speed at ~50 kmh (75kv DD).
Maybe my ABEC 97mm might be the sweet spot, gonna try them.
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