TorqueBoards Direct Drive Motor Kit

Thanks for the clarification, dude. That’s why I needed to call a bigger brain in. :grinning:

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When the right hand calls the peasants gotta show up.

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I have changed back to current no reverse with brake and set battery regen to -25A. It is much much better and now I feel comfortable riding it :slight_smile: Hopefully it will last long for a lot of nice rides.
Thanks again for all help.

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Great news :smile: :+1: @NEKDO1

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Weak breaking at low speed is fairly standard behavior for any hub motor/direct drive setup. Using a higher breaking current can help, but at very low speeds, especially on a slight downhill, you may not be able to come to a full stop. Using a control mode that has reverse can help with this, as rather than just slowing your motors to a stop, it will actually apply current in the reverse direction, allowing you to stop completely, even on a downhill.

My personal favorite of these control modes is “Current Smart Reverse” which applys a slowly ramping (configurable) amount of reverse current to the motors once you reach a very low speed, as long as you keep holding reverse on your throttle. You will come smoothly to a stop, the slowly start accelerating in the other direction. I have found that this control mode is able to bring me to a complete stop even on steep downhills. I recommend trying it out.

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I believe this only work if you are on sensored, correct ? As my sensors are fucked, Smart reverse does not work well.
@torqueboards, any idea if there is a possibility to fix the sensors ?

HFI? My buddy has smart reverse, HFI on belts and it’s works amazingly well.

HFI was not working that well on my DD’s.
Maybe if somebody managed to get the HFI parameters for the 90KV, I would like to know it.

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Brake regen is a fix.

You should be able to use Smart Reverse without issue. I believe, I’ve tried it with no issues previously.

Haven’t tried HFI yet.

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Are you saying the Smart Reverse can work good without sensors ?

@torqueboards After trying it out, Smart reverse does not work without Sensors, and HFI is useless with the DD. I tried all possibilities, but it doesn’t work. So my question is, is there a possibility to fix the sensors ?

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If the actual components are dead and it’s not a simple broken solder joint on sensor board situation. Replace the whole assembly. There’s a good chance this works: https://alienpowersystem.com/shop/rc-ev-accessories/electronics/internal-pcb-with-hall-effect-sensors-120-degree/
Unless Dex has extras but that’s pretty niche to have.

A post was merged into an existing topic: Torqueboards customer service?

I am also doing this on my elofty DD’s and its been working great :slight_smile:

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@torqueboards Hey Dex, I recieved my kit about a week ago in 4 business days from US to the UK. Insane speed. So far I am really impressed with the drives & wheels, although havnt done too many miles yet.

It appears one of the drives (not the one with missing screws) has more rolling resistance than the other. This motor also gets between 8-10 degrees hotter whilst riding. After 5 miles of moderate riding today the hotter can was at 80 degrees whilst the other was at 70.

Is this something you would expect to see or something I need to watch? Not really sure if you would expect to see that big of a difference in motor temp or not.

Anybody with DDs have any similar experience?

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Can you post a video of spinning them up?

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I can and will do tomorrow morning!

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Although I run the first gen elofty DDs, and they’re a completely different beast, I think having one motor that has more resistance when spun by hand is ‘normal’ with DDs.

My right side sounds different and is slightly more difficult to turn by hand but under load I don’t notice a thing.

Funny enough, the left motor heats up more than my right motor. Running the board belly up with the throttle at 50% it’ll average 4-6f higher than the right motor. Unfortunately I’ll never know what it translates to when riding, since my motors don’t have any temp sensors.

:man_shrugging:t2: Food for thought

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As you can see, it’s pretty minor… I just wonder how that adds to such a temp difference. I also noticed (couldn’t re create in video) that if I apply very limited throttle, I can make one can spin and not the other. I assume due to marginal restance difference in the roll.

HwVideoEditor_2020_07_20_111620|video
@Sn4Pz Good to know. Seems very similar to mine, I imagine it’s completely normal, just manufacturing tolerance.

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I have a problem with one of my motors coming loose from the truck. I can slide it off and on. It works as advertised but should I do some thing about it? I