Yes, here you go:
Not cheap tho. 220 euros per wheel.
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Wow.
Thanks.
That is pricey as hell.
I will keep waiting for you to post a video of the kick flip 
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Guys, i need suggestion on the battery connector. Xt60 seems an overkill for 1p p42a, so… Deans or xt30?
I would use XT30 over a Deans connector but if 10 lbs is the goal, you better just solder and heatshrink and seal because it’s less metal. And I’d run 16AWG
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16 awg wires are already in the cart 
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PSA:
When soldering on a live battery, remember to completely finish, wrap, and seal, one wire before taking the tape & insulation off the other wire.
And oh yeah tape the ends of EVERY wire that you’re not CURRENTLY working on.
It’s not overkill, it’s being smart.
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Actually, I’m going to stick with xt30. That 1.7g piece of plastic will make battery detachable.
I’ve checked the aeroflot (main national airline) website and it states that I can carry-on two batteries less than 160wh. So the wingtip is airplane-safe. At least, in Russia. Makes sense to add 1.7g 
Also completely abandoned the hot-swap idea. This just increases weight when I can simply charge this pack up to 75% in 1 hour.
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A bit of update post if someone is interested
Plans have changed drastically during this weeks. Not only I’ve realized I’m too low on budget to spend even 150$ on a battery and other stuff, but also noted that I have useful stuff laying around.
The first reply was “why not use lipos?” I will, eventually. The only problem is I don’t have so much space to fit 4x 3s lipos, so I thought “why not just use good old 6s config that I’ve been running for more than a year?” So, battery capacity drops to 111wh (6s lipo) from initial 144wh (10s1p 42a) but weight remains the same: 750g. On the other hand, my old 5065 270kv is 100g lighter than new 140kv, so that’s a good deal. Moreover, I’ve used this bitch at 50A and it was not even getting to ”hot” state. So power output will be more than enough, 1250 motor watts, much better that 10s1p p42a ~900 watts.
So I’ve restored stator windings, and soldered a good silicone wires to the motor. Now it feels much more better than it did previously. Currently trying to improve shaft to can connection, because original one really sucks.
Also tried to modify two chargers from 10s and 12s to 6s without any success, so I have to buy one that is cheap, light and powerful enough to call it somewhat “quick” charger.
Also, going to try glue new plywood deck in the next few days. If it is going to work well enough (I mean, weight less than planned 700g) then I’m all good to call this thing a wingtip. Otherwise - hello fiberglass, my new friend.
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You can make a 6s from a 12s bms by connecting the last 6 balance wires to no 6 of the bms i believe atleast thats what ive heard.
And moreover, I’m not a fan of pre-built bms.
Passive balancer + charge port + cccv charger serve any needs in battery charging.
FTFY 
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BMS
So here we go
Gonna feed this topic with some pcb etching photos
Update:
Finally, I have successfully soldered 1 balancer sub-circuit out of 6 and tested it. It reached impressive balancing current of 200mA w/o any problems and I’m sure it’s not the limit.
More importantly, this thing starts balancing before cell reaches 4.2 volts. Keeping that in mind you can use this for a huge packs that do not handle their voltages well enough.
Definitely going to share more details later
Update 2:
I failed to solder so many dense smd components using soldering iron
So, why not reroute the pcb to make this thing more soldering-friendly?
I’m not going to etch this thing right now, until the motherboard project is complete, because who knows, I still have spare 10x40 mm space left that I can use to place voltage dividers for each cell to monitor them. Keep in touch for update 3
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Battery
So, I ended up with using lipos
This battery is made of two hrb 3s 5000mAh lipos.
totals: 6s 5Ah, 111Wh in total, the same old 750g
I attached epcos 100k thermistor (from my fried ender 3 
) to the most suspicious cell. Not only because battery temperature is important, but also because I always wanted to 
Next, I placed foam between packs and covered them with electrical tape. I know that I would better use shrink but it’s kinda hard to find it here and waiting for this thing from China is kinda bruh to my taste.
Orange wires are thermistor, balance wires remained as is:
The only thing left to do is to solder xt60 to the output
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Heat shrink enclosure?
But more importantly, this leads me to thinking about sandwiching all your electronics in between two pieces of foam, heatshrinking around the deck and everything, and laying fiberglass on the heatshrink… for a form-fitting fiberglass enclosure… then removing the heatshrink and bolting it to the deck.
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This…sounds doable. Holy shit you may be on to something
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Here an example of a <10lb board
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