You could also use an ultra high capacity 18650, with a low discharge, and it would be fine
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I promise I’ll get around to it. In the meantime…surprise!
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Size matters
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Wireless charge? This is the most fancy remote!
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I think swapping batteries is also easier, though a much skinnier size like 14500 would be easier and still far more energy than you need. Swapping in a new charged cell while out on the road is definitely ideal and won’t leave you stranded.
But without a trigger, it’s all just a thought exercise to me 
I won’t use it. Looks cool though. Needs a trigger.
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It’s an open source DIY project, in all realism whatever is developed here just needs a custom CAD and printed shell and it can hold whatever. This is basically the evolution of our use of the mini remote, but more specialized for our uses. The electronics alone are already pretty lean.
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Exactly. IMO @thunkar is being way too accommodating for an early stage open source project.
The electronics are the hard part of this project and I would rather have him focus on that than on a mildly more ergonomic handle or 15 battery options.
Scope creep is an easy way to kill a promising project.
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Easily changeable 18350 would be the ideal battery setup for a remote, imo. Perhaps a telescopic(or multi-part, like the vape mods that can run 350’s or 650’s) remote that fit either 18350 or 18650.
Think 18350 in “puck mode” 18650 in “boosted mode.”
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I’ve always thought esk8 remotes should look to high end vapes for build inspiration
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Dude that’s awesome! Those will make a maytech v2 cut out too!
This gives me hope for the LORA vx1 as well actually
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you mena LoRa VX4?
No he means LoRa VX1 (VX1 Pro)
And I can confirm it’s good.
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No I’m talking about the VX1 pro
I don’t know if VX4 is lora I haven’t done my background research on it yet
Does it use the same potentiometer? Just out of curiosity, I am now convinced of the superiority of hall sensors
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hall effect master race
It does indeed and yeah I agree hall sensors are much better but I never had issues with the flipsky potentiometer
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Still not happy with ergonomics, but slowly getting there. More km under my belt with this prototype, 0 issues.
Finally cleaned up the 3D printer bed and tested textured spray paint on 0.12 layer height PETG:
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Not bad! @DeadLightning may have some tips on getting a really nice finish on 3D printed prototypes if you want to take it a step further.
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@sleepless @DeadLightning by all means, tell me your secrets! 
Just came back from the gym, which has been the first test on actual roads with traffic. Absolutely flawless. Visited some problematic spots around town (industrial zones with heavy RF interference) and couldn’t feel the slightest hiccup! So fucking happy.
Also, check out the new hall sensor calibration procedure:
- Turn it on and don’t release the button for 5 seconds
- First light turns on, center is defined. A short press moves to the next step.
- Second light turns on, define the maximum value. Short press to move on.
- Third light turns on, define the minimum value. Short press to continue.
- Fourth light turns on, the software checks if it has to invert the endpoints and stores the info in the EEPROM. Calibration complete and move to mode 1 (board battery, in this video it wasn’t turned on)
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