Somebody bought them all. You used to be able to buy the parts separately to make a complete for 10mm axles.
If you do manage to get the correct ones, you’ll need m8 90mm for bergmeister wheels, and at least m8 80mm for sixshooters.
These will both allow them to fit 6374. Check my build thread for pictures. Which has not been mentioned in the best build of the year thread yet by the way. 
cheers moon.
Those builds look sick you need more model photos of the board and a slow-mo video to win that competition 
Yes
With fixed 8mm axles
With removable 10mm m8 shoulder bolts
A few people, most people just import them.
Loads of places but this store has a wide selection
http://www.wdsltd.co.uk/product/3244/socket-shoulder-screws-shoulder-bolts-steel-metric-wds-615/
I bought mine from psychotiller which is no longer an option.
I bought the rkp set from surfrodz directly.
Shoulder bolts you can find on eBay and AliExpress.
€ 16,29 | 5 Pieces M8 Threaded 10 x 80mm 12.9 Grade Alloy Steel Hexagon Socket Head Shoulder Screw Bolt
https://a.aliexpress.com/5cLZs5b2x
€ 17,29 | 5 Pieces M8 Threaded 10 x 90mm 12.9 Grade Alloy Steel Hexagon Socket Head Shoulder Screw Bolt
https://a.aliexpress.com/ZxdBlKd5p
I have found shoulder bolts from China sources to be unreliable as fuck - tolerances, bad threads,rusting. Just a warning…
My link above is about £20 for a set of 4 bolts.
Yes. This is true. Out of the 5 bolts received usually one is slightly off is my experience so far. Not sure exactly if it was the width or straightness of the bolt but I had one that would not take the bearing on all the way.
One thing you can’t get around is grip. Go with rubber. Forget urethane. Forget drifting in corners. That will 100% make you slower.
The rest is preference. I myself like.
Being low to the ground: drop deck or drop through. Wide ass board to be able to get some good leverage in the turns. You might be able to get the leverage with bindings but I like to toe and heel grab in turns and needs to move the feet around. I also feel safer without bindings.
You can dail in rkp to work great. TKP would be easier to dail in. I am on the 3-links.
Wheelbase is more important than I thought. That effect the turning/stability a great deal and the trucks / bushings can only compensate to a certain extend.
Battery/esc: You need enough punch. But not too much. The goal is to be smooth. Too much jerking from accelerating/breaking and you will be slower. I run my esc / battery (mamba xlx - Batt 500a capable ) on 60 % on the track. That seems like the sweet spot. I am always faster at the end of the session when the top of the acceleration is taken off from drained battery.
The tire he is using on his normal hubs works great on the track with their flat profile for greater contact path.
or maybe because you got a whole afternoon of “warmup” 
Yeah, but really only RC ESCs are going to provide enough to get you on the podium at this stage. Maybe dual 75/300 VESCs will work too?
Might be. Before I got this setup I was on focboxes and a 10s6p battery. On the short track I am on I have the feeling that that’s actually enough with the right gearing. Especially in the light that it was first after I reduced the power in the current setup that I began cutting laptime. With 100% power it was just too uncontrollable. But who knows… Its just a feeling I have. And I have been cutting nearly 2 sec. off the lap time since changing to this setup.
