The typical flux motion build

Hopefully, I do this right.
I’ll start by saying, I’ve never posted a build thread in my life. Never really post anything anywhere, social media, forums, etc. But for this build, I felt it was necessary. Due to the immense amount of help/support I received from this community.

It all started when my friend showed up at my work with his Evolve. At the time I thought all electric skateboards were overpriced and overhyped. He let me ride his board and that’s all it took. I was in love. Within 5 minutes I was doing research on all the pre-built boards I could find. I landed on Onsra, I was sold on the black carve 2. I placed my order and that’s all she wrote (at least I thought so). As the weeks went past, that 2 week shipping time I was given felt like a month. It eventually turned into a month. I then started second-guessing myself, Did I do the right thing here?, should I refund the order and go DIY?. I then started looking into DIY(fast). I messaged everyone with a cool build I could find. Questioning them, how much was your board? how fast is it? How many miles do you get on a charge? (I am very sorry if you were one of these people lol). Anyway, most people didn’t give me the time or were not interested in talking. (understandable). Then I came across a build titled " The fuck cancer build", upon opening the build I instantly just looked at pictures, I loved the build. I read the whole thread with ease and I felt inspired. I instantly started talking to the owner of the build @monsterbuilder. This man owed me nothing, but still delivered me all the information that I needed to make my decision to cancel my order with onsra. I was going to build my own board. I am forever thankful!

I started ordering parts, Pretty much the exact build as the fuck cancer build. I am not creative, unfortunately.
PARTS LIST
Flux motion deck/enclosure
MBS Matrix II trucks
MBS hubs
Boardnamics M1-AT gear drives
Flipsky 6384 motors
Focbox Unity+
VX1 Remote
Davega X
12s8p - p42a battery from - @thisguyhere
Charger- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0816BRS6N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My experience with companies
Flux motion- They took very good care of me, answered plenty of questions, and very fast shipping.
MBS- Fast response / decent delivery time.
Boardnamics- Extremely helpful / very responsive.
focbox- decent delivery time
Davega- Arrived at my front door in less than 24 hours(still confused about this one) not complaining tho.
Battery- @thisguyhere - It was a very long process. Personally wish he was more communicative. In the end he delivered and gave me a great price. Would still suggest him.

Photos





Assembly

Currently, I have realized I am very lost. I am trying to figuring out about charge ports, loop keys, charging fuses etc. Really just everything. (I know this has all been talked about in plenty of posts). I have a very hard time retaining information after reading. I learn everything from videos (unfortunately).

Tell me where I went wrong :slight_smile:

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I’ll start answering this one.

You chose a large bulky one, but its a nice one and similar ones are used by companies like Lacroix and Kaly. (I believe) You can use a GX16-3, a GX12-3 or a simple 5.5x2.5 barrel jack, but it just depends on how fast you charge. There are some fully metal barrel jacks that can apparently handle 10 amps without heating up too much, and its a fairly nice and small connector.

A focbox unity has a power switch built-in. As long as the circuit for that power switch (called the antispark) is working, you don’t need one. They tend to fail a lot, so worst case you either replace the ESC with something like a BKB Xenith v2, or a stormcore 60D+ (which have antisparks), or an esc that requires an external power switch/loop key. A loop key is essentially a dumb device that allows you to turn your board on without sparks. The XT90-S connector has a resistor that’s built-in, so if you plug it in fairly slowly it will prevent the massive inrush of current that creates the spark.

Here are some relevant threads

Put a fuse between your charge port positive and your battery positive. In case anything happens such as a short on the charge port your battery will be protected as it will just blow the fuse.

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Thanks man! all of this is awesome. I appreciate you.

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Looking good! Starting on my first ever DIY board as well, literally building a deck and electronics so full on DIY lmao. I’m about to get started on the electronics itself since I finished building my motor mount and deck, adding a cool ass graphic on it for the finishing touch and adding a keyway for the shaft as the last piece of the puzzle. Looking forward to see how it turns out!

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likewise!

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Is the flux deck stiff or does it have some flex?

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Im not sure lol, I haven’t done anything with it yet. Ive been too depressed just looking at it for 2 months. Hopefully its up in running within the next week.

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I’d call it stiff. It has a bit of flex but it’s not a whole lot.

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That pack looks a mess like idk who that guy was that built it for u but he needs to clean it up. Also u need to be careful of how close ur wheel hub bolts are to the gearbox because currently some ppl has had issues of the wheel hub bolts scratching the gearbox and the wheel hub plate breaking. Boardnamics aka Kevin is currently working on making a stronger wheel hub plate to solve said issue but be wary when ur installing ur wheels on.

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So stoked for this build!

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I’m assuming you are referring to the balance wire layout? If so, I agree. There is some opportunity to clean up the layout to prevent problems down the road.

@Cinch Let me know if you need some help figuring this part out. I’ve got some pictures of my battery on the build thread that shows a method for laying out the balance wires. Not letting the wires cross over each other will help prevent them from wearing through each other and causing a short / battery fire.

not only that but the heavy lack of fishpaper around the cells mainly under the nickel tabs, the one literal single awg wire series connections on a dam high discharge pack and the cells groups arent taped together so they wont slide around the enclosure. Biggest issue is the single awg wire series connections, i wouldnt ever no matter if its a low or high discharge pack use 1 fucking awg wire to move current at minimum 2 for each side on a low discharge packs like 50e or m35a but high discharge packs like this p42a or p26a/28a sanyo 20700 etc should have 3 to 4 awg wire for each series because there is no telling how that pack will react if this boy attempts to set his battery current limit to 40,60 or 80 amps for both motors and then 80 motor current per motor can this pack is not built right for it to be a high discharge pack or just as a esk8 pack in general. this look like some china made pack ud see on a prebuilt board.

@thisguyhere what’s your take on this?

Anyone know of a battery builder in or near New Jersey that I can pay to fix this lol? Or should I just attempt it myself?

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@jack.luis is in Hoboken, he might be interested.

@jack.luis any interest? Im not far from Hoboken. Maybe we could work something out

Yeah, shoot me a DM. That pack needs to be cleaned up imo.

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Bruh how do you still have a working account on this forum shamelessly plugging your flipsky resell page

@longhairedboy @jamie

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sorry about this, we just delete the link. new memeber here,have to learn the rules.

Delete both of your posts lmao. This is a a build thread not vender corner