If you keep the pnummies you’l get quite the collection of those prickly bois. I’m collecting all the ones I get stuck with to set 'em on fire at a later date. Show nature who is boss.
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First long ride with the 10S5P, to be honest I’m a bit disappointed, I left with around 90% (40.7V) and managed to get 43km, drawing 476 Wh and gaining 84.8 Wh, if you do the math that nets 391.2 Wh and 9.1 Wh/km, a 10S5P of 30Q should have at least 500 Wh, so I should have got closer to 50 km 90% and 55 km at full charge
How much energy do you guys manage to get out of a 30Q pack? Any configuration, just so I can compare per cell, logs of a full discharge ride are welcome
But the board is a beast to ride with 30A battery amps per VESC, way safer in traffic, also I bumped the top speed to 37 km/h
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try it again with a 100% charged battery
percentages and power isn’t as linear as it might seem
especially in the 100-90% range
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It’s on the todo list, hopefully tomorrow, I will do the same route I do with all boards so I can compare
Right now I’m with open doing a full charge to check of the cells are still balanced
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well, you only discharge down to 3v so you “loose” the last bit of energy up to 2.5ish Volts
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This is what I’m taking my assumptions from, but lets see what happen to it fully charged, my new charger is dead silent bu unfortunately only charges to 41.2 V, so used the old one to get it up to 41.7 V
https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Samsung%20INR18650-30Q%203000mAh%20(Pink)%20UK.html
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the board still goes? looks good in the last pic. you know the indigogo is up for those.
when I moved to California id never seen anything like the thorns they have hear. think theyre called goat heads or something. I was plucking multiple out of two flat tires, on a bike. on a board I at least don’t have to worry about that with solid tires
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Still going strong, the superglue really helped contain the cracks
Once it get out of hand I will tear it apart and see if I manage to do a carbon fiber wrap over it
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Not going so strong
For my birthday tomorrow my plan was to ride all day long, not anymore I guess, retaining ring got loose and a few of the magnets are also loose, the motor was pretty hard to turn, I guess the magnets was being attracted by the stator
Everything is cleaned up, just waiting it to dry, and I will 3D print a piece that allows me to clamp the retaining ring while it dry, my plan is to use bearing retaining fluid, it’s the strongest glue I have here that can handle high-ish temperatures
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Happy birthday Pedro!
It seems like every motor should be battle hardened… Should do it to mine too…
Have a nice day and good luck with the repair 
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Thank Mathias
Yeah, definitely, I’m trying to find a high epóxi that is available locally, not much options and the best ones I’ve found are only rates to 90°C, with the direct drive test I’m getting close it, I think this with some rocks impacts is what loosened everything
There are some rates to 200°C+, but for the price I can pay for 2/3 of a new motor
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I’ve made a mess, but it should hold
First I remembered Dexter saying that the magnets aren’t clued down, so actually all of the magnets are loose by default, the only thing holding them down is the retaining ring, and that I can’t say if its actually glued down or just press fit, there was too much mud and dirt to distinguish glue from it
First cleaned it really well with multiple washes and the rubbing with alcohol using a tooth brush, the magnets being loose actually helps here since you can wiggle them to get the dirt out
Next retaining fluid between all magnets and wiggle them to spread, that isn’t even needed since the fluid is so thin it gets sucked under the magnets, this is were I made the mess, put on way too much, leaked at the bottom and the whole motor was covered on it
After a few more drops and clalmped it using the 3D printed tool
After a day should be good
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My little cousin would be proud of seeing me playing with slime 
After a lot of talk getting tips from master @rich it’s finally (hopefully) puncture proof
The mains tips for anyone trying to work with this mess
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Shake the bottle like your life depends on it before each tire
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Clean the tube with water between each tire
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Try to fill the tube with one long squeeze or it will clog, it’s hard to get the amount right
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if clogged, plug in your pump and pump until it clears
Once I got hang of it it a 2 minutes job each tire
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All the magnets got loose again, been ride as single drive for a few days, now I know why, I didn’t realize that the can was also painted on the inside, is would never stick
Now I got a ruber based superglue that should not crack and can take up to 120°C
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All fixed, hope it holds, I tried the baking soda + superglue method but this rubberized one is too thick for it
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Do you have a link to how you routed out the deck for flush drop through? I searched but couldn’t find anything specific about the set up you used to get such a clean and straight cut. Also preserving the nose and tail curves without routing straight through! Cheers!
Hey
I think I have something here, if not let me know and can guide you, I must have more pictures
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I figured it out! 
Thanks for the link!
- I ended up using a flush trim router bit with an upper bearing (bearing right up against the collet vs the tip)
I simply taped a square dowel at the width I needed the battery cut out to be,
and ran the router bearing up against it as a guide!
I couldn’t believe how simple it was once I figured that out!
I’ll be doing the drop through base plate cut out the same way
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Nice
Good call not going until the end
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Yeah I only widened the area to perfectly fit the battery.
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