This word is funny, “pakalolo” forever burned in my head with a “homie” accent… dedicated to the homie I used to cook with in a random kitchen long long ago!
Anyways heres my next dedicated build. This build stems from my first build…that started as a single and quickly escalated to a dual… from 97s…to 107s… quickly to 6" pnuemies which i love and is a compilation of various parts i collected in all this upgrade and trial process along with snagging parts on the discount off the forums for great prices knowing one day I could use em OR just had no immediate use for them but couldnt let a good deal go by.
Anyways Im in love with these drop decks…this is a Yocaher budget type but the foot feel is amazing…even on 6" with a double stack offset battery mounted below there isnt enough space so bottom mounting on thane is a def no go and Im actually quite interested in top mounting now so this will be my first step in that direction.
On a side note this will also be a test to see if i can build a modular box that could be easily unplugged and transferred to another deck.
Heres what I got…
Deck - 40" Yochaher drop deck with a 1.5" drop
Trucks - TB 218mm good n trusty
Wheels - 107 superflys/reflys?
Motors - TB 6355 190kv (will be just right although I love my 74s on my 6" build)
Mounts - Janux Medium Mounts i got used #gooddeal
Battery - 12s4p 30q cells currently in a double stack off set pattern that I will minimally deconstruct to fit
inside the pictured case.
ESC - Unity arriving tomorrow as of post date!!! woo hoo AND a metr unity en route
Case - Apache 1800 from harbor freight and cheap AF!
Now lets talk about the dream of modularity… since this bitch is low…running wires under the deck is a no go… and running em over my feet like when people have bindings I dont like. So…
I will route phase wires down the side of the board just under the lip.
Phase wire extensions will lead into and MR-60 connector.
Externally on the box, on each side will be the receiving end of the MR connector which will be mounted somehow. the wires from that connector lead inside and connect to the esc. This way If i ever need to remove all the electronics at once I can just unplug 2 wires and done.
the hall sensor cable…IM TAKING INPUT HERE. I read some one used ethernet/gigabit cable as the main extension line from motor to box. This is option 1. I have plenty of standard sensor wires I can hack up to attach to the ends BUT currently wondering what a good junction would be from external box to the inside that isnt super bulky…and has 6 pins(or something)
“the hall sensor cable…IM TAKING INPUT HERE. I read some one used ethernet/gigabit cable as the main extension line from motor to box. This is option 1. I have plenty of standard sensor wires I can hack up to attach to the ends BUT currently wondering what a good junction would be from external box to the inside that isnt super bulky…and has 6 pins(or something)”
took my 12s4p offset double stack and broke it apart into 4 pieces an now is an off set brick to fit in the box, swapped the bms to a d140 to save space.
started making some extension wires for phase wires using MR60s and then got ethernet cable which is fn cheap and soldered on sensor wire connectors…took some time but nice n long.
will trim phase wire leads once I get things mocked up…motor to box… and another connector from box to unity…I wanted things to be modular and easily disconnect incase I want to pull this box off for a monster “range” ride on my other board using this battery in parallel.
this deck was originally going to have a TB case on it… then I build a different deck with a diff case and now circling back to this build obviously I decided to go top mount. Soooo, I pulled all the inserts… and filled with bondo.
Id also like to mention that Im attaching the case using T-nuts… i didnt want them to show on the bottom side so I used a paddle bit to countersink em in the wood… then came back around while I was doing bondo and glazed that over too. I will use a carbon fiber vinyl I had already to skin the bottom of the board for a fresh look. Im not looking for perfection on the bottom, just clean and simple.
I will post some pics of the box up later and how Im routing cables in…nothing tricky justing PVC elbows and already drilled out a hole, just need to trim the extra elbow off and then glue it in…
here s few pics of the case
drilled out holes in the front corners… use 90 degree pvc elbow and cut off the extra (pics to come on that)
added the charge port…since I usually have my board standing up I put the port on the bottom of the case so the charger doesnt have to reach as far
AND… unrelated… got more cells today for 12s6p top mount build for my current AT board Im using… stay tuned for that! Tons of space in this other case!
so pretty much finished everything today and got a test ride in… heres just a couple pics but more detailed ones to come to fill in the blanks…
not sure how i feel about the cables running down the side and the appearance BUT what u gonna do when its a big drop deck on thane? def cant run it under as its low as hell…so stuff is half secured and half mocked up in case I want to change something. the box barely fit everything and was a tight, very tight squeeze for all this.
I havent ridden on thane in at least 6mo so it felt kinda weird…but with it so low it was super stable and super carvy… probably could use some slightly tighter bushings. I also am rocking 18/36 which is what I had before I went to pnuemis and yet it felt kinda of underwhelming from what I remember =/
May gear down for more torque-ness…
So I dont like running the wires down the side to the esc… No option with it being a drop as mounting underneath isn’t safe… So I’m going to try rear mounting just the esc and just running a power line to the rear… I saw some nice esc cases for unity… But like most peeps I’m on a budget… I saw this micro case on Amazon and its just under $20. Will try.and.mount and test this week! Thoughts?
The little box seems like a good idea to minimize wires running past your feet. If you have the means, how about routing out a small channel along either edge of the deck, inlay the pos & neg power wires into each channel, and bondo/epoxy/caulk them in place, so the wire ends come out near each box? Hopefully this makes sense, but that could pretty much hide the power wires in the deck edges under your heel and toe.
In retrospect I was already thinking that if I were to do it over again (which I probably wont) but route a channel up the center for power wires and then lay a skin or something over. I’ll probably still run am up the middle and feel like I saw a low key piece of metal at home depot that they could cover them and act as a grind rail/ protector in case I bottom out.
a lil progress today… more detail pics to come…but this looks wayyyyyyy cleaner… dont mind the velcro that was for the test ride till I figure out a better option to secure it.
Im hesitant to use screws to screw it into the board only cuz I dont want to have to remove them if the truck hardware needs to be tightened but… hmmm… otherwise everything fits nice n snug inside…
Secured to deck and everything fits just right… Hopefully road vibration doesnt break anything but otherwise this board is ready for service! The nice thing is it also feels light since I’m always lugging around my “tank” 12s5p dual 6374…
So it is great and super carvy and responsive…and enjoyed testing it around the neighborhood…however…unfortunately… As great as superflys are…the best thane I ever rode…before I knew better lol… After being on pnuemis for 6mo I can’t enjoy a thane board anymore for my riding style and things I encounter in the city… Its kinda sad. When all i knew was thane I rode fast and adapted… But going backwards sucks lol… So I threw my 6" tires back on this one while I rebuild my dead 8"…
Superflys will probably be up for sale soon =P
