THE New Go-FOC DV4s

I can replicate the issue without riding the board.

I’m almost certain it’s the fault_code_drv that’s the prime issue.

I also took some data while successfully replicating the issue on the bench:

Fault            : FAULT_CODE_DRV
Motor            : 1
Current          : 661.1
Current filtered : 66.0
Voltage          : 38.50
Duty             : 0.950
RPM              : 57735.9
Tacho            : 389436
Cycles running   : 54106
TIM duty         : 6383
TIM val samp     : 3360
TIM current samp : 3360
TIM top          : 6720
Comm step        : 0
 
Fault            : FAULT_CODE_ABS_OVER_CURRENT
Motor            : 1
Current          : 510.5
Current filtered : 160.0
Voltage          : 38.98
Duty             : 0.743
RPM              : 20685.8
Tacho            : 393640
Cycles running   : 4
TIM duty         : 4991
TIM val samp     : 3360
TIM current samp : 3360
TIM top          : 6720
Comm step        : 0
Temperature      : 21.93
 
Fault            : FAULT_CODE_ABS_OVER_CURRENT
Motor            : 1
Current          : -551.4
Current filtered : -150.8
Voltage          : 38.85
Duty             : 0.823
RPM              : 7693.8
Tacho            : 394257
Cycles running   : 3
TIM duty         : 5530
TIM val samp     : 3360
TIM current samp : 3360
TIM top          : 6720
Comm step        : 0
Temperature      : 21.91

50A will be fine.

600A :fearful:

Is it possible to try a different motor to test?

1 Like

Is there any reason why I shouldn’t go higher if I keep temperatures in control?

@sevenfloorsdown
I also had these 600A currents

I had them when the auto turnoff time has been set to 30 minutes on both sides. After the fault occured one side went unresponsive.

When I set auto turnoff to 30 minutes on master and always on on slave this issue went away completely

Edit: I had the switch plugged into the master

Not at the moment.

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You can try it, but better not. Price determines performance :sweat_smile:

2 Likes

Alright! I will stick to 50A then

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That is so dumb but being a software engineer myself, I can see that bug happening anyway in firmware. I will report back after testing this.

EDIT: I’ve raised my motor and braking currents again to levels that I knew would instantly trigger this bug (but otherwise fine with other ESCs) and I can’t seem to cause the issue on the bench. I’ll try on the road later on as it’s night time here now.

@YUTW123 You may want your firmware engineers to review their code to validate @Dinnye’s finding. At the very least update the instructions on your website on how to configure the switch.

6 Likes

Just did a short road test. Seems ok now. @Dinnye’s work around works.

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We have a description on the switch settings page. :sweat_smile:

6 Likes

Thoughts on if I will have issues with running mine without a heatsink? 12s2p P26A and dual 6355s on TB110s with 15 to 44 reduction, best guess would be 300W cruising and 1200W bursts

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Should be just fine. I’m powering dual 6384 motors (100A per side) on 8" pneumatics with no heatsink and didn’t have any issues.

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Oh that’s perfect then, trying to pack this sucker in is proving to be a nightmare, will let y’all know if it’s possible

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Does this have the same bolt pattern for heatsinks as the DV6?

No it does not, it’s smaller. The DV6 pattern would not fit on this ESC

I’d love to, but I don’t have the 5.03 version of vesc tool and I would like to use the profiles in the mobile app. I can’t find any download of old vesc versions that isn’t kinda sketchy.

Is there a trick to opening the heatsink? I popped out the 4 screws and it doesn’t wanna open

hold down the bottom part of the heatsink and grab all 6 phase wire and pull upward slowly, the thermal pad is pretty stuck on

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Do you know what’s on the other side of the heatsink mounting screws? Can I thread something in to push on the top heatsink half or is it PCB under there?

Other I’ll try the phase wire trick, I need to run new leads anyways