^exactly. You would need to add 20-30 degrees on the front and rear to make this work. The rear would actually turn backwards as-is.
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So impossible - do I understand correctly?
PS: Idea behind it was to add one of Jens’ drives, see https://www.e-toxx-shop.com/mbs/mini-gear-box-drive-mbs/1-4-helical-gear-box/#cc-m-product-10006723570
3d servisas sells a wedge for stupidly expensive. Otherwise, you’ll need a mtb deck with the deck angles to match. Mbs, tramps, Lacroix, Kaly, markone and several others make decks that would work with no modification.
I understand if you’re set on this deck though, it’s a beauty
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Want to stick with that deck, yes … trying to build something light, but solid. You mean this one here https://shop.3dservisas.eu/products/fatboy-35º-riser-adapter-for-trampa-mbs-longboard-trucks ?
Wow nothing makes you feel poor like shopping e-toxx
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… Except 3dservisas
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I also would like to build a drop down board with channel trucks soon. Those decks are just SO stable.
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@agentdev can you please investigate some hard knee pads - I find it hard watching anyone hit > 30mph without them !
can’t recommend these enough - TSG DHP
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I finally picked up a 3D printer (Ender 3 Pro) so I can prototype some new light mounts before I machine aluminum versions.
Thanks for the info @Venom121212 and others… I have a feeling that this printer won’t be alone very long. 
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Ooh this one. Me likey. Badass shot.
Really nice job, that build is so clean. Century guys holding up a very high standard!
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where can one find this tail light?
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Meilan X5
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That was a Meilan, but I also use these:
Ampulla Oricycle Rechargeable… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XXHDQLN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
The remote is a bit more reliable IMO.
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How do you secure it to the deck?
In that photo, I used two corner brackets. I am trying a few designs with PLA and will print some nylon mounts shortly… I’ll start a thread if they hold up well.
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I replaced the Haggy motor mounts and belt drive warp nacelles on the Enterprise with the AVIO MKII gear drive by @avX. This kit rocks! The drive system itself is extremely quiet as expected.
I went on a quick test ride and managed to hit 33 MPH uphill and still had plenty of torque remaining. I rode back home because my taillight battery died and left the board on to look at Metr data. While looking at stats, Bluetooth disconnected and I noticed that the anti-spark switch LED was off. Then I noticed the smell of electronics burning…
I grabbed goggles, gloves, and quickly removed the enclosure and disconnected the Flipsky FSESC 6.6 ejected the warp core.
The battery appears to be ok, but this ESC is FUBAR.
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(: Glad you like it.
Good lord, what an emotional rollercoaster of a ride though… what do you think caused it?
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Bummer, but I guess could have been worse with battery involvement. Bara is selling a used but good Unity if that’s an option for you.
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I’m not sure… I’ve had a lot of weird issues that I assumed were firmware related. Either way the new drive was incredibly smooth… I really like the power band vs my old 4:1 gearing. These motors measure 183 and 185 kv so I expect to cruise at 36-37 MPH.
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There’s always a 15T pinion to swap to if you want to go any faster (
Hope you get your electronics sorted to get more rides in!
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