Welp, it did not work unfortunately. The charger light remains green. The order of balance wires must be off then correct?
there might also be something disconnected, be sure to test balance wire continuity with your DMM
I may have figured it out. I thought that my balance wires were ordered 1-5 with the negative wire being farthest to the left, as shown below.
However it is actually in the order of the picture below, correct?
the voltage should go up from ( - ) in ~3.6V steps. Idk how they are sorted on your particular type of lipo though.
typically black is your b- with the rest going in order from there.
he has 2 black leads though, so colour doesn’t matter here apparently.
So it was as I suspected, the black on farthest right is negative, with the next wire to the left reading 3.7, then 7, then 11, and so on to the left. So this picture is correct?
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looks right
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Awesome thanks, will report back lol
Sorry to change the topic, but I have a quick question about buying a BMS. I am working on an 18s Samsung 50G battery build, and now I’m wondering what BMS I should use. I found what I think to be the correct BMS from LLT Power, but I just wanted to see if you all had any opinions. I’m possibly going to be seeing a peak output of 120 amps, so I’ll probably end up bypassing the BMS for discharge anyway. I’m open to any suggestions. 18s BMS (20A)
that looks like a good option, if you’re going to do direct discharge anyway you could save a bit by only getting a BMS that’s rated to the current you expect to charge at.
alos know that the BMS will limit the current anyway, I use a 20A BMS with a 7A charger and I’ve never seen it actually go over 5.9A
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Good tip. I haven’t been able to find one with a lower discharge current than 20a, so I think this will be fine. Thanks!
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20A is the lowest LLT has
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I’ll go ahead and order it then. I think as long as I can figure out how to bypass the bms for discharge only, it will work fine.
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that’s easy, just wire up everything on the BMS besides the discharge + and - then just wire discharge straight to the main + and - of the pack
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B- to battery, C- to charge port -. C+ to main battery +. For discharge just run the main + and - from your pack to your switch/esc.
I have no clue one of the esk8 members gave it to me.
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You might do well to reinforce it somehow. Fibreglassing the whole thing would be ideal but would likely act to stiffen your complete assembly, using decent thickness aluminium strips on the flanges could be a better option.
If you are expecting any notable amount of flex, I fear that enclosure won’t last very long without help.
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https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-6-ft-x-0-5-in-Aluminum-Solid/3024784 would something like this work?
This is a zboard blue battery that cut off power on any load. It failed while I was ridding. All ballance leads are at 4.1v. I’m trying to determine if the bms or battery is at fault. I cut off the old bms. I was going to wire up a LTT 10s bms, but then I saw this. This is corrosion damage in the second picture right?
