What about going with 18650 staggered double stack and adding a thicker gasket?
Yeah I was thinking that too but the wheels are already moving to get my new 12S4P 21700 pack done so gonna stick with that.
(Plus this way the new pack will be compatible with both my boards - if I did the 18650 double-stack Iâd have to add gaskets to both of them to be able to swap if I wanted to)
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Hmm⌠I went to charge my completed battery after a very short first ride and it charged for about half an hour or more then my charger lit the green light and stopped charging. I checked the board and itâs not at 50.4 volts but 45.2 volts (12s). The charger reads 50.4 so could the BMS be cutting charge off? itâs a 48v Daly with up to 8a charge and Iâm charging at 6. I have a 2a 50.4 colt charger I could solder my plug onto and try out?
For now Iâll leave it sitting on the big charger and check the voltage later but the fans not spinning so I donât think itâs charging.
I know it charged since I built it with cells at 3.51 - 3.53 volts each. all but 8 or so were 3.51. 45 / 12 shows each p group at almost 3.8 but I have not checked them individually since I built it.
So youâre saying to stay away from this cell for general pack building in eskate and similar? 
Deletes them from cart
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Far as I know, the 12s Daly BMS units are marked as a 44.4v nominal BMS.
You sure you have the right BMS for the pack?
Yes, if the spot-welding could be done in the wrong place and/or the nickel strip interferes with the operation of the venting disk.
Oh, I havenât noticed, this is the best option right now I guess.
Gonna order from your website.
Well first what charger? Green light very rainy means fully charged. Normally the current has dropped below a threash hold thatâs set by a China man and his guess of a voltage.
It could be your bms stoping the charge as the cells are drifting and it needs time to drain 1 cell from over volting befor it continues to charge.
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Plugged it in this morning. Charged for about a minute before it cut again. Iâll try leaving it plugged in when I get home.
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bought a heat gun and did some huge pieces of shrink wrap and still same issue
it refused to wrap around the pack
it just would either curl up on top or be to short
no idea why it wont be normal
How far out to the ends did you start? You basically want to shrink the ends down so far that they wonât fit over the pack, then work your way inwards until everything is snug.
If that doesnât work, you may need a smaller shrink tube. You donât want it to be all that much bigger than the pack itself - maybe up to 20-25%, but not more than that.
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How fast are you heating it up? in my experience its better to do it verrrrry slowly and evenly the bigger the pieces are.
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I was about to post almost exactly the same pic 
.
Someone gave it to me and I wanted to check with you guys if it was a 12s for sure.
I got the p groups done and have to wire the BMS, can I use that one and later on swap for a smart one? Or will there be issues with balancing cables order?
By the way I already had started welding when I read that nickel on nickel welding was a pain to get right. I hope it wonât come off 
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bought a heat gun with 2 settings
it shrinks it very fast
used to use a hair dryer which was slow
had issues with both
280mm wide was a squeeze usings 300mm now
i managed to get it working on a couple of the groups but its super messy and tons of bits at the end left
gonna keep going and learn to get it right
13 pin = 12S, daly always puts 48V on them.
The daly smart and daly bypass bms use the same JST. The LTT BMS uses a different one.
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You will probably have to trim the ends to look nice, after youâve shrunk everything.
Also, since your packs are so wide and short, theyâre probably always gonna be a little ugly. You could run a second layer of shrink in the other direction (or a layer of other plastic) just for cosmetic purposes.
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be careful, Daly sell a lot of liFePO4 BMS
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