The battery builders club

6s balance boards are way cheaper than any 12s bms :slight_smile:

For example this. But I have seen some as low as 50c.

Glad you got it sorted out dude. Have you tested discharge yet?

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Not yet

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Hello Guys! I have a 12s6p 18650 30Q samsung pack. Iā€™m charging with 3A now, it is so slow, I will buy a bigger charger. What is the recommended amps for that what still safetly for the battery? What cables do i need for bigger charger? Now i use DC port for chargeing, but maybe i need to change that too. And i have a jst plug between the charging port and bms, maybe i should change it too. What plugs do you reccomend me?

Sp13 for the charge port. Use xt30 to connect the port to the bms and charge at 8a. Full charge is 3ish hours.

The most common ā€œstandardā€ charge rate for li-ion cells is c/2, which means charge at a rate equal to half the capacity. Since you have 6P, and each cell is 3Ah, that comes out to 6 x 3 = 18Ah, so you can safely charge at up to 9A, without it even being considered a ā€œfastā€ charge.

Iā€™d say replace that JST with an XT30. Theyā€™re small and pretty cheap, and can easily handle that current.

You obviously want all the wires and connectors (and the charge port fuse, which you should definitely have) between the charger and the battery to be able to handle that current. Iā€™d say a fuse rating of 10-12A should be fine for an 8-9A charge current.

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@brently

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Hey Guys!
Iā€™m looking for a professioal who can build a battery for me. Iā€™m in hungary europe, so preferred in the near.
Can you recommend somebody for me please?

@Acido :slight_smile: :+1:

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What enclosure?

Haero Bro enclosure from eboosted peru

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All looks good to me. Think I got the fishpaper right.

My hot glue alignment didnā€™t come out very good so I taped them while the silicone cures. I bet with this soft neutral cure stuff even if you let it cure off alignment you could pull the cells together with tape.

Now copy and paste, onto PCBs.
Hmm maybe I could have glued the cells to the PCBs at this step/the hot glue spot step?

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Iā€™ve tried silicone on cells, Iā€™m not a fan. After a month, it peeled off easily from the cells and did nothing for rigidity or structure.

Iā€™m using the Trendbox black glue, it doesnā€™t ever move.

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I used this exact silicone before and it works like a hot damn it doesnā€™t want to peel off in one piece at all itā€™s extremely bonded to the wraps. It also stretched like an inch before breakin. Nice stuff that I am using for sure, kinda removable too.

I am sure the dab of hot glue totally makes up for and of the inadequacies of the silicone :laughing: oh and the 35J welds to .2mm nickel.

What kind did you use general purpose or what?

I tried two types of the GE Advanced Silicone 2, an electrical grade, and the Loctite Marine.

Left them on a set of the Sanyo GA cells for about a month and a half. Was able to disassemble all the cells by hand. For me, that wasnā€™t suitable.

The pliability doesnā€™t work much for me either, as I would prefer not to leave all the rigidity of the pack to the welds, and have the structure spread over the glue as well.

35j seems low for 0.2mm. Iā€™ve been using 50-52j. Unless youā€™re not also using a KWeldā€¦ I actually have no idea outside of a couple welders.

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hmm was this covered in the ow pack rebuild video? would have liked to see that.

Honestly I have not welded .2 in a while so I was guessing lol. I know it was more than 30, I use less than 30J for .1.

Nah, I donā€™t end up publishing content on most of my tests. In that video I used the Trendbox glue.

The silicone tests I did when I first started making the CBXR mod, and it didnā€™t work out so I disassembled it all and shelved it to move on to other stuff.

If the stuff youā€™re working with works better, thatā€™s good. I was mainly concerned because the silicone held fine after curing, but lost its hold after a month, and I figured it would also do that inside a pack well after itā€™s been in use.

The stuff I glued with the Trendbox black glue essentially never lets go and remains near impossible to peel off. Iā€™ve actually ended up using way less inside an enclosure for the sake of being able to remove or replace components. Learned the hard way.

Idk I use 54J on 0.2mm and it seems to be good

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I am currently lmao having trouble with my cheap-ass spim08hp welder packs, something is off with one? or all? of them I am not sure. I am trying some fresh packs and maybe I will lengthen the wires so that 3S3P does not give overcurrent like before.

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https://www.facebook.com/250757562088956/posts/503041673527209/
Now we can be sure molicel cells cant be faked

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