Yep you’re correct
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Group 9 doesn’t balance anymore. I will probably need to remove the wrap and check the bms wiring of group 9.
But Is my batyery still safe? I mean, are big voltage differences in p groups potentially dangerous? And can i still ride my board with such a big voltage diff.?
doesn’t mean grey that this one is the lowest p-group? How else would it know the voltage if it isn’t connected to the p-group anymore.
Also, if the p-group doesn’t go over/under critical voltages, you can theoretically still ride your board, but it’s not advisable, as there could be a poor connection which produces a lot of heat.
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Whatever you like. 4V seems like a good value to me
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Cool thx 
interesting…
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Is it a good idea to buy some Molicel P26A 18650 and add them to a year old battery with about 50-100 miles on it? I want to be able to get more range and not charge as much. I just don’t know if it will damage my existing pack in any way because my pack has 2500mAh 18650s in it and I want to add 2600mAh batteries to it to make it 6s4p. (existing pack is a 6s3p with Samsung 25r)
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no.
You can make an external charge and ride pack, but building a new battery is always best.
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why? I was thinking of putting one more cell in each p group to make them even. Im having trouble understand why that is bad
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there is like 4 threads on it I am too lazy to link. You can make a charge and ride pack but not add cells to a used battery.
A charge and ride pack is NOT a parallel pack
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is a charge pack the same as putting a detachable drill battery on my board to add range? I was thinking of doing that too.
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The drill has a BMS so as long as you dont damage your pack with to fast of charging. You should still limit Amps
Got a question to ask. My ltt BMS is coming in, my charger charges at 2a, got two 5s batteries that I need to connect in series. My VESC is able to do 30A or 25 continuous, I’ve been told that fuses will be good to have on deck, I’m wondering how many I’ll need, where to put them and what kind should I get?
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Only fuse the charge port, that way you don’t loose brakes if a fuse pops.
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You only need a fuse between the + of the battery and the +of the charge port. Nowhere else.
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I fixed it. It was wrong to simply put the balance wire for each p group on the -ve. I had to put p group #16’s wire on the +ve and the rest of the balance wires for each group go on the -ve of the group after it rather than +ve of the group - an important detail I didn’t figure out at first and no one told me 
Also I replaced all the plastic wires in my battery enclosure with 20awg silicone wires. Will arrange the wires and tape them all down on top of the hot glue next.
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