Yes, new when purchased. So, if over discharging didn’t cause this issue, I’m dying to know what did.
Okay, I just rechecked the pack, and I was wrong- the battery still has voltage, 19 volts, but was reading 0 through the charge port, and I have no idea why, it must have broken. I still don’t understand why 19v wasn’t enough to turn the ESC on. Once a cid pops, it’s permanent, right? I guess I’ll try reviving it.
Should I start charging at 19 volts, and slowly turn it up?
It’s supposed to permanent be as the protection tripped for a reason and we should not try to bypass that. There are spectacularly dangerous ways to reset a tripped CID that some people try out but why? Just to get a damaged, over-pressurized cell back into operation?
My guess is that you have no tripped CID’s. Maybe, perhaps, possibly, a couple.
Since we don’t know the condition of your cells I am forced to err on the side of caution and to recommend that you do not try to revive that pack. Without a BMS or p-group voltage monitoring you could easily severely overcharge a p-group, bringing it up to a dangerously high voltage.
If you try to charge that pack anyway please do it verrrry slowly and check the voltage of each p-group often…very often.
Going to check each cell manually before I try. If they are out of balance, I’ll either add a BMS or throw it away if it’s too much.
Overdischarging (leaving the board on) zapped the pack. We don’t know what happened to each p-group yet. You have, at least, a charging port issue so there are multiple bad things going on.
I’ve already torn everything but the pack out of the enclosure- so I guess I’ll never know what was wrong with the charge port. I was using one of those 5.5mm x 2.1mm charging ports, and they are extremely chintzy. Won’t be using them anymore. Going to put the ESC in my other board which has a non-functioning (yet brand new) Flipsky 6.6 that I have been too bummed out about to troubleshoot.
What I find odd is that the ESC wouldn’t power on even though it had 19 volts. Is it possible the pack regained that much voltage overnight? I wouldn’t think so.
You don’t see anything wrong with hooking up this ESC to a benchtop psu to verify its working without motors?
edit: anyone know why I can get neither PPM nor UART to work on a brand new FSESC 6.6? I’ve switched the TX/RX pins. I’ve turned UART and PPM on and off again. I’ve upgraded the firmware, nothing I do gives me a working remote. Even tried multiple different remotes and receivers- nothing works on this particular esc. Need to contact Flipsky, and go through the whole “can you make a video of the problem” nonsense with them.
bit off topic but have you tried both sides with the reciever? FSESC6.6 often have a broken can switch.
Yes, unfortunately . Not even a PPM receiver/remote works on it. That makes no sense to me. I can understand perhaps one set of traces being bad, but both? Just not likely. The receiver gets power, and binds to the remote just fine. Motors are detected and setup. I’ve been thinking perhaps I could make some jumper wires from the tx/rx pins of the receiver, directly to the MCU, but I’ve never done anything like that. I told Flipsky about it, and all they could say was “can you make a video?”. You’d think that they’ve encountered this problem many times before, and that they’d have some advice and things one could try, but no.
I agree. I can’t see how that could happen unless there was a loose connection somewhere before and it’s touching now.
It had a good connection, I’ve checked all of that- no breaks in continuity anywhere. I’m starting to think it really did gain that much voltage. I’ve checked the ESC, it’s working fine- so that’s a relief.
Great news about the ESC.
You said your charge port was reading zero volts when the pack was at 19V so there was no voltage increase that we know of. We don’t have any info regarding the pack voltage before you measured the pack directly.
You can’t somehow trip the CIDs for every cell, have the cells sit at zero volts for some period of time, and then have the permanently-tripped CIDs reset themselves and have the pack jump up by 19V.
There are too many unknowns, too many things that are going wrong, too many things that don’t make sense.
What were the p-group voltages (before charging started)?
It’s actually going up right now. It’s at 20.53v, and climbing. I’m 90% sure I measured at the battery as well, as I pulled the tape off of the terminations. If the ESC had anything close to 19v, it would have powered on. I’m quite confident that nothing was broken, and they were just over depleted. It will be interesting to see what the voltage is tomorrow morning. Yes, super happy the ESC is good, thanks.
I didn’t measure the p-groups individually yesterday, and I still haven’t measured them.
Okay, thanks…interesting…a mystery to be sure! Looking forward to seeing how things proceed.
A very interesting concept but I still feel it can’t put much long term pressure on the wire and battery contact since the end caps will be pushed away from the cell from the threaded plug’s pressure on the battery contacts.
You can never tighten the threaded plugs more than this amount unless the end caps are epoxied to the cell (and hold during vibration, heat, etc.).
Perhaps having some sort of snap-in or snap-on link between the top and bottom end caps could work?
you seem to be asking for a better design, This is questionably better than the Nese modules, maybe for cost? NESE is smaller and more impact resistant I think
NESE, the no solder 18650 battery system.
I’ve seen that system…another interesting method!
Each has its advantages and disadvantages, which is expected of course.
I’m not looking for any particular approach, other than I am anxious to see someone create a great method that multiple communities can use to speed up the building and repair of packs while not affecting safety and reliability.
A verrrrry difficult combo of requirements!
The kind of complicated and unlimited amount of requirements that require you to go back to the extreme basics of any kind of metalworking, by using welding!