Do I need to clean the excess flux off my nickel after soldering? Also I’m going to cut a seperate shrinkwrap sleeve for each p group and make a hole punch for the balance wire is that okay?
Once I have soldered the balance wires can I kapton tape the series connections? I’ll never need to take off the kapton tape on the series connections right? The voltages all measure as they should.
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As far as I personally know it’s just a visual thing. Might depend on the type of flux you use though.
That is one monster battery.
Probably won’t but it’s not like it’s that hard to remove anyway.
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Good. I’m just hoping it’s not a safety issue.
in the words of @glyphiks “i think you are crazy and your battery is too big”
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Do you need a specific charger setup for a 12v car battery or can I just buy a 12v 2a cccv charger and leave it permanently connected?
There are a lot of different types of flux and many of them are quite corrosive, I assume that once none of it is on the cells you’re fine but I’d err on the side of caution because I don’t like that stuf. Maybe if yours is “no clean” flux or doesn’t have any spooky warning labels? Tbh it likely is just isolated to the nickel andthe fish paper/fiber tape/kapton has it protected already
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This is my flux. It says on the back to remove residue with a rag 
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That stuff is corrosive to copper and would not be a good idea to leave on electronics, but sorry I’m not an expert and can’t find much about its interactions with nickel and/or fishpaper or other insulators around the cells, or the cells themselves
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Good to know. I’m wiping it.
Before you start your balance leads I would really number your groups. It will go a long way in preventing wiring mistakes. My $0.02
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Not really, don’t need any special charger. I think a lab power supply is best. I have the Riden 6006, and set it to 13.5v at 6 amps. Each weld dips the voltage down to 13.2v for like a second and then it pops right back up and the current slows back down to a drip.
But those batteries are pretty durable and can take a lot of abuse without issue.
Welding use is essentially nothing compared to use in a car.
The lab power supply has pulled more than its weight for me, since I use it to charge everything from individual groups to the car battery, to completed boards (I just solder up a charge cable and use spade connectors at the supply terminals).
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12 awg silicone. 12s4p. Fish paper is actually vulcanized paper properly. I had a nightmare in the search bar looking under fish. Vulcanized paper is another name for it. Sometimes better search results. Sometimes…my batteries are hot glued, kapton wrapped, vulcanized paper (fish paper) wrapped, then kapton again. Then shrink wrapped.
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Took a considerable amount of force to remove this. It’s 0.2 with a sunkko on dual pulse 99 but I know it looks suspicious. I’m having trouble figuring out how to use my boss level and kinda like the simplicity of the sunkko. The only 0.15 I have Is only 8mm and I don’t want it to get hot or not be able to carry amps. I guess I’m being too choosy, this particular battery won’t be H.O.
Trying to figure out if I should take this next picture l apart and use me 0.15 with the sunkko to make this 10s4p. Or if I can swing it without burning down my shit.
Edit, probably I’m being pretty shitty
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Isopropyl alcohol is a great solvent for flux residue.
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That still looks pretty sus to me. Might be able to get away with it, but I definitely wouldn’t put in anyone’s board but my own, if you know what I mean.
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Your series connections look like they’re completely solder soaked.
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If anyone here has a 3s 5ah turnigy graphene lipo, pm me. I need a quick video of it to send to hobbyking for a warranty claim. I brought mine to a recycling center immediately and forgot to take pictures for a replacement because the thing was warm and died.
Man thats gonna last you to the end of times lol
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Took me about 3 years to go through that much lol my roll is just running out, need to find a new one
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