I was running a single 5065 for a while. In the winter it didn’t get too hot but when it was 20°C out it was steaming lol
yeah I was on that at the start and thought that eskate just wasn’t all that fun. I’m planning an upgrade to 2x6384s on a lower kv so I can move back to something more sensible like a 15T, whenever the budget allows
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I was running 140kv on 15/44 w 120d clouds. I moved to dual 190kv 15/44 with tb110 and haven’t looked back. (10S)
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yeah big PUs are on the list of stuff I want to try, but at this point I like the clouds enough so I just want power then lipos to travel then everything else like proper logging and different wheels or nice lights or whatever. tbh, I can’t handle high speed much at all (yet?) so I have no interest in 15 and 190
edit: sorry way off topic, feel free to yeet us over to general discussion or whatever
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Welds are a touch hot but not a big deal, if you switch between cells as you weld (1 2 3 4 1 2 34…) it’s gonna be fine
On the negative side you should spread it out as much as you can, aim for a hexagon along the edge of the nickel
Overall well done though!
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I’m surprised that it’s hot, but its probably because I shortened my leads as much as possible. Running a kweld on 45J with a single 5ah lipo.
Otherwise thank you for the feedback!
Negative terminal will need more energy, as the voltage drops it will need to get bumped up so try to always have a full battery when you’re starting. I find it best to start on the negatives (go down the length of the group one weld at a time so it doesn’t overheat) then do all the positives as the voltage goes down
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You could also keep the battery on the charger at all times, thats how I ran it while I used lipos.
Although I broke the internal connections on all of them lol
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After 2 p groups I went from 12.4v to 12.25v. I’m still mostly charged, but I’ll definetly do this.
my charger is a 0.5a portable lipo charger, it wouldnt even make a dent lol
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Doesn’t that trip the short out protection on the charger? I’ve got a iMax B6 and I’d like to do that but I’m scared to fuck it up
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Not sure tbh, it may and it may not, depends on chargers response time i guess.
Or go the safe route, and charge while your electrodes are cooling 
Haha I’ve got a air extractor by the welder so eveything stays cold except the tips and they cool off when I’m setting up the next group. Weld 'til its dead!!
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Might get a second battery though…do I buy a lipo or more skate parts?
Buy beer 
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Good choice
I’d say switch to a nice new car battery, and leave it on a float charge. Perfect, never runs out, and durable as hell.
I had a coupon from Auto Zone, and a 700CCA battery cost me $115 out the door. Used it with the Malectrics, no problems. Set up the KWeld, calibrated nicely on the first try and hasn’t hiccupped since.
Sure, it’s bulky, but not as much as one would think.
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