They are crimped connectors! I want to be able to disconnect the p groups
Gonna go out on a limb and say you honestly cannot use those in Esk8 dude. Except maybe in a top mounted brick pack build. Somebody else can go into more detail, but itâs simply not safe.
Bullet connectors are far more safe, XT-60âs much more so though bulkier.
But you canât use those crimp connectors. Safely at least.
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Thereâs âbullet connectorsâ like those for automotive or other use, ant then there are Bullet Connectors for high current RC use.
Those are NOT the kind of bullet connectors you want. I would not trust them anywhere near the current levels we normally run, with the amount of vibration a skateboard sees.
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So I should just solder both ends and make it nonremovable then?
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These or these are bullet connectors. You should definitely not be using anything crimp to carry current. And frankly I would suggest abandoning the idea to disconnect P groups unless youâre dead seat on flying with the battery, which is going to take a good bit of work to be possible as regulations arenât just under 99wh, because all youâre doing is adding fail points.
You need a lot more heat. The solder should look smooth, anything jagged or rough is cold and will break.
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That, or buy some RC bullet connectors, and solder them in place.
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Yeah⌠was going to try to say this but didnât want to sound incredibly rude lol. In the end, sounding rude on the internet is definitely better than a fire or him street facing from some sort of electrical related lockup.
Draft I deleted:
Cannot overstate just how much amazing knowledge there is in this thread. Seriously, itâs fucking unreal.
Scroll through this thread and look at pictures. Attempt to copy how things look from others. Others will definitely have some fancy tools and such, but you can get pretty close without. Thereâs more than a few modular pack builds being posted in here⌠follow what theyâre doing. If what youâre doing looks nothing like those⌠chances are youâre doing something quite wrong and dangerous.
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How do I get more heat? I have a fixed 60w solder gun. I am not using flux paste but I have flux core solder so it wonât look as shiny
Step one:
Donât use a solder gun. Use a soldering iron.
Something with 65-80+ watts, temperature controlled.
A TS100 is a good choice, or a Pine64 Pinecil, or one of a myriad of chinese irons that take Hakko T12 tips, or an actual Hakko that takes T12 tips, such as a 951.
If youâre really strapped for cash, the Saneryigo SH72 is just about the cheapest possible temperature-controlled iron that still takes integrated heater-tips.
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Btw. I wouldnât have believed this until I actually had it happen to me after a decade of soldering with apparently quite ideal wire.
Some wire sucks fucking dick for reasons I donât understand even though it looks perfectly fine. Starting out soldering with it under less than ideal conditions (knowing how much heat to use, iron wattage, tip size, flux usage, etc) could be quite discerning, because it just sucks lol.
Wire from Hobbyking has never once let me down. Would recommend sourcing from there instead of Amazon or wherever else when starting out.
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I have a boss level spot welder with two 3s lipos in parallel and 8awg wire. I need these max settings to get a weld with 0.2mm nickel where it sticks to the cell after pulling? Does this make sense? @Anubis
You need flux paste. Cored solder simply isnât enough for these applications unless you seriously know what youâre doing and have a good few years of experience soldering. Even then, youâd just be stupid not to use it.
This is a good starter/works more than well enough for anything you will need it to.
https://www.amazon.com/SRA-Rosin-Paste-Flux-135/dp/B008ZIV85A/ref=mp_s_a_1_3
Can be thinned with isopropyl.
There are some kester liquid formulations that can be sourced fairly cheaply from eBay in nice syringes that are technically a bit better and great depending on the application, canât remember the exact model numbers youâd be wanting off the top of my head tho. Someone else might know.
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The other thing to keep in mind (after you get a proper soldering iron) is to use the correct tip. You want something fat and blunt, for maximum contact and heat transfer. The C4 4mm conical style is common and good for that.
Every tip format will have something like the C4 or D4. These are for the TS100 or SH72, but youâll see similar naming conventions on T12 Hakko tips as well as others.
Most irons come with something like the B2 as standard, which is fine for small stuff, but for big wires you definitely should get at least one other bigger tip.
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As long as you have a fan pulling fumes away/are soldering outside, you really canât use too much flux. Seriously. Easier to just be liberal in your application of it until you get the hang of how much you really need. Dip your stripped wires in it before tinning. Slather it on your slightly sanded nickel strip, dip your actual iron tip in it every now and then while soldering (along with brass sponging & wetted pad sponge)
If you ever leave a lot of residue behind on a PCB or something itâs good practice to clean it up w/isopropyl and a sponge or q tip or w/e, but most of the electric formulations arenât exactly corrosive to anything more than the most sensitive of PCB components.
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It this ts100 legit?
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01MDTO6X7/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=A2FGAWCX62OR7U&psc=1
It comes with b2 and I will get c4 seperately
Can I still make use of the solder gun for anything? Like arduino stuff with 20awg wires?
I canât think of any reason Iâd ever want to use a solder gun when I have an iron and a small assortment of tips. They just donât work well. I think theyâre better suited to like craft jewelry?
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Yes, that one will be fine.
I mean I guess, if you want to⌠But I personally wouldnât. Once youâve got the TS100 you probably wonât want to sue anything else, since itâs so much better.
Solder guns like that are mainly used in production environments where the user needs to make hundreds of joints per hour.
Itâs like getting a new car and wondering âhmmm, can I still use this old tractor to get groceries?â
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âŚand these are some of the welds. I can pull it off with my hand but not easily - is that good enough? How come some of them look so different? Itâs the same settings
