Tht was me XD, personally i like the look of the sw1 and less setup req then kweld/malectrics. Also i hate probe welding myself, already have arthritis so holding some skinny ass pens while applying pressure to weld doesn’t fair well for me so pen was better and one of the other biggest reasons why i choose the sw1. Regardless of the big 3 lipo welders u choose all of them perform great for the intended purpose 
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I need to solder an xt90 and my charging plug to a cable. I know most people put their fuse in their boards but can I have two fuses? One on the charger and one on the board side?
Should they be the same or diff amps? My port can handle 20A and my charger is max 12A so I was thinking one 20A fuse in the board and one 15A fuse in the charger. That way the charger one will trigger first and that’s easier to replace than opening up the board?
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You can do that, yes.
I don’t really see the point though - The charger already has current limiting circuitry built in, to limit it to 12A. If something happens with the charger, chances are it’s going to shut down, not suddenly send more power to the board.
The board side fuse is there for a different reason: If something ever causes a dead short across the charging port - accidentally plugging a loop key into it, or someone poking it with a fork, or whatever, the fuse will blow and save the battery, and the BMS, and maybe even the charge port itself from significant damage.
tldr; you can do that, but I dunno if it’s worth doing.
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Great!
I now understand the use of the fuses better. I’m only going to put one on the board side for the reason you explained. Thank you!
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I was putting my charging cable through this tube and the wire has some bends in it. Is the cable ruined? They are 2 14awg wires to carry 67.2V 12A.
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My first reaction is to say “Uhhh… No?”
My second reaction is to wonder why you think they might be ruined, and wonder if you know something that I dont about those cables.
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I’m thinking it formed kinks when I created those bends then that makes the copper strands weaker so they can tear?
It’s fine.
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Yes. Might aswell throw the whole board out with those ugly kinked cables.
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It’s my first time doing anything like this. It’s so frustrating. I spent 2hrs trying to shove those two wires into the tube. Tried different tactics like tying a string to the wires then pulling them through. Ultimately I cut the tube into 4 then I was able to get all segments on. Too much friction. Also accidentally burned my finger with my soldering iron. Had to redo my crimped connectors twice because if forgot heat shrink then deformed the connector with my heat gun. Can’t say I haven’t thought of just throwing the whole thing out.
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Isopropyl alcohol can be used to good effect as a temporary (fast-evaporating) lubricant for rubbery things like this. Also works good for putting grips on handlebars.
Also not to make light of your work, but some poly sleeving or cable wrap would have been a lot faster and easier, and probably more flexible in the end.
I personally would have (and actually have) just used some two-conductor cable (available by the foot in most local hardware stores). My current charger is using about 10 feet of bright orange 3-conductor “extension cord” cable with the third conductor just ignored. Simple, cheap, no trying to play pool with a rope.
It doesn’t need to be silicone, because it isn’t subjected to high currents or intense vibration like the stuff in the board is.
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Braided cable as a series connector is nice.
A tip for when I did these. I first tinned the cable entirely and then cut them with heavy duty snips. This makes the wire not fray at all and leaves a nice clean line. If you are doing a longer length, just tin both ends lightly so the middle stays flexible
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You should have seen me the other night trying to get 200mm heat shrink over an 180mm wide battery covered in neoprene, lol.
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Remember the pack I dropped? It got a little makeover and now looks like this:
10S5P → 15S4P
DieBieMS → ENNOID-BMS-SS 15S
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How much is 2 12awg wires series connection good for?
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Definitely a bit gnarly man.
More flux, more heat.
Tin your wires well and also make a nice blob on the nickel. The tinned wire and blob should pool together pretty seamlessly when everything is correct as can be seen in many pictures here.
Use something like these to hold the insulation of the wire as you’re soldering the wire to the nickel
https://www.amazon.com/Finger-Grips-Steel-Spring-Clamp/dp/B07V2JRF3C/ref=mp_s_a_1_6
Hemostats also work well for clamping the tinned tip to the blob, then just applying heat onto the blob until the wire just drops into the molten pool.
What is that funky yellow insulation? Reminds me of crimp connectors and not sure why you’d be using them
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