This isn’t esk8, but these are good welds.
You can see how the points kinda sink into the cell, there isn’t a charred/discolored area around them and there isnt any kind of hole in the middle
You can see how the points kinda sink into the cell, there isn’t a charred/discolored area around them and there isnt any kind of hole in the middle
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Are those your spotwelder tips… ?
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Yes
Are those not literally shorting? or is that just for the picture? not really sure what im seeing here
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It’s just the picture don’t worry
I don’t know which spot welder you have, but good tips make a huge difference. Maybe look into replacing them before you finish your pack?
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If not replace them, I think a good place to start would be to sharpen the tips some more.
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I sharpened the tips. What am I doing wrong? They don’t stick together well
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Seems like the probes are too close together have you tried to move them a bit away from each other?
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Kester cored solder has worked great for me, I don’t use any additional flux. That stuff is filled with it.
Just get this stuff and you should be set. I use the same gear
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PYFSCJ9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJQI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That iron goes up to 500C and 120W. Included chisel tip works great. If you get the technique down, it can easily produce very good joints:
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Thanks but I just ordered the ts100 and the flux the other guys recommended. I’d appreciate help with the spot welder. I will try making the probes further apart in the next hour. Is the boss spot welder just not capable of 0.2mm with parallel 3s lipos and 8awg cable? I have the max settings on the boss welder.
I’m just saying standalone flux is going to make the life of an inexperienced solderer/those with suboptimal tools much easier.
Some don’t realize that to make cored solder work as well as it should for each new tinning that you should freshly cut the end off to expose the core instead of cauterizing it with your iron tip and sealing it off.
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I was just looking into another forum and for 6awg wires someone is going to upgrade their 65w soldering iron because it’s not enough. If I’m buying a new soldering station I’d want to not have to buy another down the road for 6awg. For that would I need like a 80w or 100w soldering iron? Any recommendations? I can still cancel my ts100 65w order currently…
@JoeyZ5 I’m looking at the ksger one but it doesn’t come with a cable to plug it in? Where do I get that? I need to solder asap. Also I’m confused. In some places it says max 72w in others it’s 120w so which one is it?
6awg is typically the point where you stop soldering and start using high quality crimped marine lugs and spliced w/a 10-16 ton handheld hydraulic crimper. Also butane torches if you do want to solder.
For iron soldering 6awg tho - you’re going to be using a giant fixed temp iron w/a 1/2" to 3/4" chisel tip, like a Weller 175W or higher.
Don’t get caught up in trying to plan for things you definitely won’t need anytime soon. Anybody soldering 6 or less will have a dedicated iron just for that alongside a dedicated iron for ~8/10-24, and maybe even a dedicated iron for ~22-32
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Also, I don’t know of many hobbies that are going to be using much soldered 2awg-6awg in the first place.
For high current Esk8, 2 runs of 12awg w/bullet connectors is overkill for most. Couldn’t imagine a situation in 2x10awg would be pushed to the limit or even close.
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I think I’ll keep the ts100 order then.
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Honestly, if you wanna feel safe with the options available down the line, I’d get a Weller WES51/WES51D & an assorted tips pack off eBay for like $20. Things are fucking tanks and heat up fast.
I however don’t have a lot of experience with the TS100 to compare, somebody else may.
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Im just gonna swoop in here with my $25 soldering station that (with a chisel tip) makes perfect solder joints on everything up to 10AWG:
I’ve been soldering with one of these stations for over 10 years. I just recently got a new one. The old one didnt break, I just love them that much lol.
For 8AWG or more, I use this iron plugged into the Elenco station
(It should be noted that this station is a kit, and requires assembly.)
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I’ve got a couple related suggestions:
First, good welds need consistent, solid pressure on both electrodes to force the heated areas to fuse together into a good weld.
Having both electrodes in one holder like that makes it very difficult to exert even pressure on both electrodes - One will always be pressing harder than the other, which is undesirable.
Separating the electrodes further apart will force more of the current to pass through the joints-to-be and down into the bottom strip, which helps improve the weld quality.
Taken all together, I would recommend replacing that handpiece you’re currently using with a pair of individual tip holders, one for each hand, so you can more accurately control the pressure and spacing.
Also, shorter, stubbier electrodes will help too. Shorter, thicker conductors are better everywhere on a spot welder.
If that doesn’t markedly improve things, then I suspect your problem lies in either the battery, or the welder itself.
In the video you shared, it looks like the welding pulse is longer, and less powerful, than most others I have seen. Spot welding works best with a very short, very high power, pulse. Longer, lower power pulses are almost always worse.
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