I’d never put a fuse on the main line. Brakes are too important.
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Plus, in the event of a significant High Energy Event, the vesc PCB itself makes a pretty good (if expensive) fuse.
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I got into an argument with people in the Funwheel discord about the fuses and most of them would rather be crippled than have a dead VESC…
Also doesn’t cutting power to a VESC that’s under load have a good chance of killing it?
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Weird group of onewheelers, all of my onewheel / euc buddies don’t fuse the discharge since you can’t even ride out a fault/massive failure on a balance pev.
Also doesn’t cutting power to a VESC that’s under load have a good chance of killing it?
Its pretty much 50/50, if you are braking when the connection is broken you will experience failure, probably blown fets and traces. If you’re accelerating then the caps will drain and VESC’s ‘should’ shutdown but sometimes the motor BEMF is enough to keep the 3.3v regulator powered which in turn keeps the VESC’s live until you attempt to brake in which you will experience failure.
Better just not to chance it in any situation on any PEV, can’t put a price on health, you absolutely can put a price on a battery pack and controller.
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And even if you’re in FreedomBurgerLand like me, where you can put a price on health (or at least healthcare), it’s going to be more expensive to just walk through the door of the ER than to replace the whole board.
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Thats the most important if not the only thing to take away here.
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I’m privileged enough to generally not have to worry much about hospital bills. However, living in NYC, I do worry about dying.
Brakes are THE most important thing on any vehicle for me, full stop. I’d rather lose my $1800 Onewheel, or any DIY anything to be able to at all avoid a situation that I know right now, is full of distracted, careless drivers in a high concentration.
I don’t even live deep in the heart of Queens anymore, my family and I moved east to get away. And I don’t even actually commute anymore. But decades of that kind of living are ingrained, and I still don’t put fuses anywhere but the charge line.
@Lee_Wright said it in a video, and I remembered it. I’d rather be standing on a ball of fire with brakes for a couple seconds than try to save a battery.
But hey, we’ve all got our own journies, and we’re all trying to get to the end as best we can. So we make our choices based on the information we have at the time. I don’t fault anyone for building how they do, even if I don’t agree.
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The part didn’t melt. Though the little blue circles to align the nickel broke over time. I should have made them into rails. I have metal dust all over me. Took 7 hours cutting my nickel 
96 of these pieces.
Any tips for folding the nickel? I will fold one piece half over the top cell of the p group for the series connection wires. I will first solder onto this fold then spot weld so that the cells don’t experience that heat.
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Is there a video in this forum on how to solder wires to nickel strip? I think you first deposit a ball of solder onto the nickel, then heat up the ball and stick the wire in and add more solder to cover the wire?
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Make sure everything is liquified too. Don’t want a cold solder joint. A hard pull test also wouldn’t be a bad idea.
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This right here is what you want! 
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Thank you!
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Does this look okay?
When I fold the nickel on the p group, the angle is obtuse. Then I bend it a little more with my hands to make it exactly 90° or a little less. Is that okay or does that make the nickel weaker at the bend?
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Omg someone made this for Shua that’s fucking amazing
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Yepppppp hahaha
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That looks just fine to me.
You could always make a 3d printed bender-thingamajig with a few degrees of springback built in so you get a perfect 90 every time, but that’s up to you.
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Unless your spacing is 100% critical, it should be okay if the nickle isnt perfectly at 90deg the entire way around. Once its spot welded, you can bend over the edge easily (Unless its .3 for some reason)
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Hey does anyone know the balancing behavior of this 10s BMS?
I checked an old pack with recycled cells and it doesn’t really balance it. I waited with 42V connected for 3 days and nothing changed. The highest cell is at 4,25V
does not change. Does it only balance above 4.25v or is it broken?
Did you only connect the balance lead or the main lead too?
is there a welding pen you can get for a kweld
also without to much to a controversial discussion
kweld vs sequere (if the sequere had good tips)
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