The battery builders club

yes you can do this. the question still remains, which deck, truck and wheels you plan to use. you need a lot of clearance for that pack.
you also need space for the bms, a switch or xt90 loopkey and the escs.

Hence why I put P and R ond the mesurment on last pic they stand for P (perfect mesurment with out any clerances walls and conecctions) and R for realistic.

What if I find used batterys from ebikes that are all at storeing voltage are they good to make 12s8p battery pack. Me and my friend got such one pack from a store that sells battery the guy was going to throw them so I picked them up.

we need to know which cells and what you want to use them for.
We still donĀ“t know which kind of board you want to build, which is the base of all your battery calculation. I asked now more then enough times for it.

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Yup. Iā€™d be scared having that much stored energy inches from my inches :sweat_smile:

Look forward to seeing how much range you can squeeze out of that beast!

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I plan to use longboard as a cruser that is capable of long ranges and with top speed of up to 55 km/h. Will tell in time about cells when I source enough of them. And this is the second time I am replying to the same question.

You can go 55km/h with a single drive or a dual drive :tipping_hand_man:
Urethane wheels or pneumatics :tipping_hand_man:
There are significant differences :tipping_hand_man:
With 90mm wheels you will have clearance issues, but thatā€™s totally up to you.

Sorry if I get a bit offended, but like this itā€™s not easy to help you as there is no yes or no.
Everything will always work up to one point.

Itā€™s like I would ask if I can use used LiPos for my emtb build.
Yes definitly I can but fuck no, donā€™t do that at all.
Who knows which lipos I was speaking about
:tipping_hand_man:
Who knows which motor/s I want to usešŸ’ā€ā™‚ļø Who knows how I ride and where I ride.

In general all you want to do is possible and doable, but doesnā€™t really makes sense for esk8 applications.
You said you donā€™t have time to read this thread.
Ok, no problem,
but why you than have time to spend days to test hundreds of used cells? Why you have time to build a pack you very likely will need to rebuild after 6month of use?
I donā€™t knowā€¦priorities probablyā€¦

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Well, I certainly have better things to do with my time than cater to this kind of attitude.

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Donā€™t let him get under your skin @Andy87. Itā€™s just like that leading a horse to water saying šŸ¤·

Now we just get to sit back and enjoy the (hopefully safe for everyone involved) fireworks :slight_smile:

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Lol, I have to reassure this: I just tried to solder a stripped piece of awg10 on a piece of nickel with the big 150W iron. It worked quite good but It became fucking hot nonetheless? I soldered really quick but Iā€™m unsure if its not too much heat? Currently Iā€™m thinking of soldering the cable to a loose piece of nickel that will afterwards be spotwelded on top of the parallel group?

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Like bend over style?
That works great, but if you mean like solder on a normal tap and than spotweld, better no.
Solder And welding doesnā€™t work good together :sweat_smile:

I meant the latter, but only spotweld where there is no solder.

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No problem sorry if I sounded rude or mean. I will try to accomplish what I intend. And for time issue it is right now in this moment, testing of the batterys did even started yet,maybe in 2-3 months time who knows. Thanks for spent time and advices I will try to update when I got enough materials and work done.

You mean like this?

I could spotweld the lower part to the nickelstrip on the battery, then on the part shortly before the bend and close to the end and then someweher in between where theres no solder? Would this work?

:smiley: Sorry for being a noob but better safe than sorry :smiley:

I think you need not worry so much. Pre-tin both sides, and be quick in and out. Keep a moist sponge or paper towel on hand to help the joint cool off. Try to solder on a spot between cells. Be more conscious on the positive side, as thereā€™s less metal to sink the excess heat.

Nickel doesnā€™t conduct heat super well, and this works a bit to your advantage when soldering.

Itā€™s better to minimize heat, but there have been many many packs built with solder and copper. My first and most used/abused pack has no copper in it.

I donā€™t think heā€™s here for advice? Doesnā€™t give any details about the actual vehicle despite repeated asking, only wants to talk about the battery pack in isolation, but wonā€™t reveal the cell. Everyone says ā€œbad ideaā€ but ignores all that and doesnā€™t ask why bad. :man_shrugging: I think heā€™s on a cheap battery reuse project, not a vehicle project. Hey everyone learns in different ways. Maybe Iā€™m wrong and heā€™ll build some next level stuff.

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Oh one thing @visnu777 fishpaper doesnā€™t like water. Swells, delaminates, etc. Ask me how I know. :slight_smile: So no soaking.

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:smiley: I thought so

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I know it has eleven pins. As we hooked it up, 5 cells max were shown to us. But when all were connected it the correct order, all numbrs went away.

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Maybe time to break out the manual. :slight_smile:

Pretty sure he just wants someone to tell him exactly what to do, what to use, and how to do itā€¦ without doing any of his own research.

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