Some thing I never thought why I do that
Kaption tape IS a insulator so how do you conclude the opinion of it’s not suitable as a insulator for some thing that’s not moving?
If it’s not moving/rubbing then abrasion is Irelivent. I don’t protect my balance leads from eatch other only from the crap insulation of the cells shrink wrap
Still from Germany but also have a US distributed
Does anyone have dxf for fisch paper insulation pads for 21700 cells laying around.
Kapton is an electrical insulator, yes. But it is not abrasion resistant. Every single component in our esk8’s are subjected to high vibration constantly. You might think that your balance wires are not moving, but high frequency vibrations can cause them to wear through each other and short out. Fish paper (or another abrasion resistant layer of some kind) is cheap insurance against this happening.
Yes I agree but I have not come acros this issue yet. I see a lot of compression issues and heat. Did a bit of looking at your websites see how you do things for any ideas of how I could improve things for my own battery’s.
I presume the black lead running over the call is always the neg of tha cell so no voltage potenchal witch is fine
I see you group your balance leads. I have not seen any evidence of this causing issues (as long as the don’t prods or make any pintch point but your comment above said it dose.
2 things I do see is people useing cheap hook up wire and crossing cables resulting in the cables squashing reducing the cable insulation because of. Vibration on a preacher point and heat. My solution never cross cables and use silicon wire for balance leads always run the cable on the cells you running it to the neg side of. Up until now I have covered every p group in fish paper completely because I build as diy so time are the couple of £ in extra barley paper is Irelivent but this is unusual for comershal builders that need to keep costs down.
Haha keep making full size pcbs for me to buy because i fucking hate balance wiring as well.
My take on this is like, it is extremely unlikely that it goes through cable insulation plus kapton tape but, because the consequences can be so severe and it is an easy thing to do, I’ll just do it 
General question to all malectrics users
I want to weld 0.2mm x 30 nickel strips on a 21700 30t pack and to be on the save side i want to weld an additional stack 0.2x30 onto
So for the first 0.2 nickel im using 33ms which makes good welds
I would ask wht your experiences are fot the 2nd strip weld
Is this even possible with the malectrics welder?
Kr
Second nickel layer is totally possible. You might have to turn up your ms because nickel has a lower resistance than the steel cell can.
Hi Good People,
I had to travel for work last week but I am back! Question, Should I be concern about how my Ah looks on this BMS? It’s connected to a 12s6p. The total Ah aren’t lining up with the spec. All cells volts look okay to me but I could be wrong, should I think about letting the smart BMS balance down to a .005v delta? Thanks for the help.
Is it bypassed? (Charge only)
Ok thx very much any experience how much ms i will need?
Charge only, bypassed
The coulomb counter can not measure current passing through the BMS if it is bypassed. The percentage and Ah reading is wrong because of that, so you don’t need to worry about it.
Thank you,
How do you feel about the delta of .013v between the cells?
The delta is fine. I’ve noticed the voltages spread out near the full and empty, and are the closest at nominal. As long as you are within 0.03v you are good.
Nice man which settings do you use for the second and which for the first layer?
Using K weld due to doing the pack on one charge I started at 46.5J and by the time I finished I was at 51J (nickel thickness 0.2). I’ll probably start at 51J for second layer and see how we get on.
I thought the main reason was to make it so there was some movement if the wires get tugged before they are ripped off (assuming you have shit solder points)
