As long as you order them with a balancing enabled they do. What other applications wouldn’t want balancing idk, but it’s an option that could be removed.
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Maybe in case like this? 
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Whenever I look in this thread, I would enjoy seeing the most amazing battery builds ever. And then I scrolled to that one image with the soldered batteries and it went away.
But I wanted to know what would be the best battery welder I can use? I need it smaller since my apartment can’t handle the power needed for an actual spot welding station. If possible, link me to the lipo battery or battery best for it?
Appreciate it.
Note: I did write this in the wrong thread earlier 
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Depends on your budget
The Flipsky welder has been shown to be decent so far
Kweld is amazing but a bit on the pricier side, also based in NY
Boss level spot welder, don’t know much about it.
Malectrics is highly regarded but based in EU/UK
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Malectrics or K-Weld are good options, I’m very happy with my K-Weld and 6Ah Turnigy Graphene battery (although I’d like to go for 2 of them for the extra ampacity)
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Welcome to one of the rungs of Onewheel hell. At least for some OW owners who don’t leave their board plugged in often. You’ll see differences of more than 0.1v often enough. Takes several days to iron out. But eventually it does… eventually. Unless the pack is messed up. Which is always fun.
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I would like to run off two simply so the batteries heat up slower haha
I run the welder behind the solder fume extractor and now the electrodes are far hotter than the XT90 or the battery
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I usually run mine with a fan on it, and yes, the electrodes get burning hot after like one 7p group haha
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I do the same thing with the fan on the battery/welder.
My fingers are on fire after one side of a p group… 
I want water cooled probes or somethin
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Who wants to make some electrodes with cooling fins 
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I know several people already posted a similar problem so, sorry if the answers are already there…
Multimeter doesn’t agree with group 1 voltage… also, why is group 2 in red and not the 11th also?
All good:
The thing is this pack already has a daly connected and I’m checking out a smart BMS. I had to improvise extension cables and was connecting the B- to the output of the daly bms and not to the battery directly:
which one is for the static setting? Couldn’t find anything that I could correlate 
(Using app version 3.1)
edit: I think this new version doesn’t have the “static” label but somehow managed to set it to balance without being charged
If you loop the balance leads 180 deg befor terminating it “looks neater” I also do this on the - side of the p group to reduce the voltage potential. Looks as tho you mix it up between the + or -
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I thought it was Germany. Yanks will try to claim every thing that’s good as there own.
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Originally from Germany but they distribute out of new york I believe.
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Can you solder BMS balance leads out of order while the connector is live? I’m making this bike battery and because of the layout it’s a lot easier to do it as B- 0 2 4 9 7 5 3 1 6 8 10 P-
It’s the DALY 10s in discharge more
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I would always disconnect the balance lead before soldering the wires. If you want to make sure the port will end up in the exact spot you need it, tape it in place above the BMS port.
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