Piece of mind for a little shitstain like myself. Thanks.
1 Like
I may be going slightly mad or indeed have the onset of premature dementia but I am sure I bought some 200mm shrink from HK last year. I do order a lot of shit from everywhere though so could be mistaken. HK do change stock quickly if things are not selling. Definitely ebay
1 Like
So ITO shrink tube, is it better to go fit-like-a-glove and then shrink it down, or 10% oversize and then shrink it down?
1 Like
I like it to fit well and then shrink. Also depends on the type and quality of the shrink. It will only shrink to its capabilities so less is more.
1 Like
I just notice something but I donāt know if I should be worried about it.
Iām planning to covert my 10s4p to a 12s4p and I bought a Daly 12s BMS. But I just noticed that the Daly 12s BMS says 36V
compared to other 12s BMS that says 48V.
Whatās the difference? Something going to blow up?
And this is the charger I bought.
1 Like
Looks like you bought a 12s bms for lifepo4 batteries not liion batteries 
1 Like
If they havenāt shipped yet they can send you a lithium ion version. The one you bought is no bueno. Lifepo4 is 3.3v nominal 3.6v max.
1 Like
Iām really interested how you get on with those cells
1 Like
Iām currently in the process of building my first spot-welded battery, 10s6p from used but thoroughly checked cells, regrouped with the help of repackr.com for balanced groups, from my first build in NESE modules.
This is how it looks atm:
I used silicone glue to connect the cells in group and applied fishpaper rings on the positive terminals.
I wanted to add some kapton between the positive terminals too and wrap the whole group with kapton.
The groups will be divided with the shown spacers printed out of TPU. The connection will be made with 2x 10 or 12 awg wires (Not sure if I have enough 12awg left but have plenty of 10awg) Good plan?
An alternative Iām currently thinking of would be a awg10 connection soldered over the whole nickel with an xt150 connector to be able to split the battery in <99Wh packs for flightsā¦
@Andy87
Will keep everyone in the loop. My setup can theoretically outpace the 150A constant supply by 10A, so will be interesting to see how they perform.
1 Like
2 x 10s4p 30q packs in the makingā¦ thought I was being clever by only putting the insulation paper where I needed itā¦ ended up doing 3x as much work cos I had to tape it on to hold it there.
Im just gonna go back to my tried and true method of wrapping the whole group.
4 Likes
Are those the 30qs you just received?
Any update from the supplier?
The supplier reckons that the different stamps are because of the cells coming from different countries/regions.
I got my capacity tester, cells measure the same, weigh the same and have same capacity as my genuine cellā¦ supplier has certificate as a genuine resellerā¦ without doing a discharge test it seems pretty goodā¦
4 Likes
Yeah that sounds good and latest when the pack is ready and on itās first ride you will understand if they sag like hell and fake or the real deal.
Lol. I really hope that doesnāt happen.
2 Likes
ja ja. Letās hope so.
1 Like
If you have spare wraps I would unwrap one of each to compare.
@visnu777 i didnāt understood why I was tagged 
but I like the idea with the tpu spacer. I think you good with one 10AWG wire for the serial connection if you donāt have enough 12AWG. I mean I think you will use probably only 1x 10awg for the main positive and negative lead anyway, right? So than it should be good for all other serial connections too.
Soldering 10AWG on the nickel strip on the terminals requires a good solder iron and some skills to not heat up the cells to much. Iām sure you have those experience, so you should be good there too.
Xt150 sound big. Didnāt understood how exactly you want to split it, but maybe use an xt60-90 and route two 12awg over one plug for positive and same for negative? Just an idea, but make sure solder them clever that you canāt accidentally plug plus and plus together etc.
1 Like
Thanks, I tagged you since you are one of the helpful and people giving useful feedback in the battery threads 
and Iām doing this for the first time. I bought a 150w ersa soldering iron particularly for this, hope Iāll manage. Iāll definitely do some training before. But it should be doable when I try to solder on the parts of nickel between two cells?
2 Likes
Yeah should be ok with the 150w iron it should be easy. Use some sandpaper or something to rough the nickel up a bit and get special nickel flux. Flux helps a lot to solder to nickel.
3 Likes