best way to protect the series connections? i was thinking fishpaper and then kapton to hold down on each connection and then some more fishpaper/kapton to cover evrything and hold it all together?
am i doing it wrong?
best way to protect the series connections? i was thinking fishpaper and then kapton to hold down on each connection and then some more fishpaper/kapton to cover evrything and hold it all together?
am i doing it wrong?
If it was me I would wrap them with fishpaper, do all the balance leads, then heat shrink each section (so 4 total sections). You might need to add something between blocks so the shrinkwrap doesnāt fold them
If one were to build a 10s1p/12s1p with P42As, how wide of a nickel one would need for series connections?
Or would it be better to weld tabs and then solder with 12~14AWG wires?
Especially in a 1P config, I would run tabs to 12-14awg silicone wire to reduce voltage drop and total pack resistance.
Tabs for a 1p seem kinda overkill tbhā¦ It most likely wouldnāt need to be flexible anyway.
Iād go with 15*0.2mm or cut some 25mm nickel a bit down to 20mm or so
That looks nice! Iām going to do a single stack but unsure of orientation yet, would be nice to see some tiny 21700 packs as inspiration/reference!
Conservatively 25mm * 0.2mm, should still be cold at 50A. 15mm * 0.14mm will run hot at 50A
However I did 10mm * 0.15mm since I live life dangerously and the board could only pull 30A at full throttle up hill
I have some 10mm x 0.2mm ones. Maybe stacking two of them would be betterā¦ thatās a nice layout. Did you make the model of that 3d print?
Nah I bought them
If ur around San Fran Iād like ur batteries!
nah sadly in the uk so not gonna happen unless you wanna pay 100$ or so for shipping
@zachtetra what do you mean when wrapping in fishpaper. cover all connections with a single piece or each connection seperately. also to hold each block together will kapton tape be enough or should i use a different tape
@Halbj613 use this stuff in the future for your serial connections
https://fandfind.com/product/ruby-chemical-rfl20z-liquid-rubyfluid/
ONLY USE ONE SINGLE DROP PER SERIAL CONNECTION. a tiny tiny bit of this stuff goes a long way. Itāll help create those bulbous round pretty solder joints you wants. Make sure your iron is hot (atleast 750 F) and you feed the solder quickly but CAREFULLY. AND WEAR GLASSES
its in the usa but i can look for it locally
thanks
now i need to protect my joints and gotta find how to do that?
thanks
Alright, so my 12s4p 40t pack was left alone for too long, cels are 2.9-3.1v am I fucked?
Nah, take mine to 3.0V pretty consistently. Have been below 3.0V a few times. Wouldnāt sweat it and just charge them up with a slow-ish charger.
Just over the top is fine, you donāt want solder against the shrink wrap or it scratches a hole. You donāt even need tape if you shrink wrap after, but kapton or fiberglass tape is fine if you need it
k thanks
and will kapton be fine for securing the blocks together?
For the blocks you might need something rigid, the shrink wrap will pull the top face together and it will turn into a V, Iād try a piece of cardboard the width of the battery or maybe some hard plastic (ideally you want the yellow fiberglass stuff they use in the Chinese batteries which is basically unpopulated PCB material but itās gonna be a bit of effort to get)
ah i see i can do cardboard but dont have the other stuff. only issue is wont the carboard add height which i really cant have