Thanks, I will be running it either on a Trampa VESC HD-60T or on my old Unity with Torque 6380 Motors. so I suppose Max current would be 2x 80 = 160 ish?
1 Like
obviously trying to maximize it
Just wondering because a 5.5 mm bullet fits exactly in an Xt60 and that would be a bit small for an output as far as I understand
Well, XT90 is usually considered to be good for about 90 amps continuous. If youāre going to be pulling 160 for more than a couple seconds at a time youāll definitely need something beefier.
That said, regardless of how much power you have on tap, itās hard to draw that much power for very long on an esk8 anyway, because you either run out of grip or top-end.
Unless youāre planning to do the esk8 equivalent of pikeās peak (a long, all-uphill, balls-out race), an xt90 should be fine.
2 Likes
ok, but what do you think of my logic of xt90=8mm xt60=5.5mm as the bullit fits exactly in it. Or would I not need the same thickness between the groups as on the output?
No, you absolutely need the same thickness throughout.
XT60 connectors use 3.5mm bullets, and XT90 connectors use 4.5mm bullets.
Bear in mind also, that all bullets are not created equal. There are a couple common designs, some of which are significantly worse than the others, for a given size.
There are what I like to call āsolidā connectors like these, which are all one piece:
And there are āpin and springā style connectors like these, which have a separate piece acting as a spring:
These are muuuuch worse. The full current has to pass through that thin metal spring, which can easily lead to hotspots and failure of the connector.
If at all possible, get the solid ones.
The really large ones (7-8mm) are also available in a third kind, which is a hybrid, with advantages of both kinds: They have a separate spring, but the spring is not in the current path, so there is no heating issue.
I use those in my ebike, and theyāre really nice.
5 Likes
I see thanks. I just realize those sizes obviously relate to the inner diameter which got me confused.
so these would be good but they are probably 7mm on the outside
1 Like
So I had to redo all the balance wires to accommodate the new plug for the new Flexi Lite. I also noticed that the main leads for the pack looked to be cold soldered so I ended up re-doing them as well. Does all look ok now? The scotch tape is temporary as I have kapton tape coming tomorrow.
Uploading: 20201122_162351.jpgā¦
Uploading: 20201122_162351.jpgā¦
1 Like
When you re-do the scotch tape, try to straighten out the balance leads so they donāt overlap.
Like this:
Where they have to overlap like in the picture, there is fish paper insulating the wires.
4 Likes
I studied battery building for at least 18 months. Iām waiting on parts to start my very first battery build. Stay safe bruh I hope to see you riding soon.
9 Likes
No liquid came out and no fumes came out, just a little weird smell for a second and then it went away. Based on the photos I sent do you think those cells are punctured? I think one definitely is with the black little hole but the other one just looks like a nasty weld. Also, how the hell do you unglue. If I heat it up Iāll damage the cell and if I pull them apart the cell will get all fucked up because this glue is not letting go. Anyone have any ideas? Itās that black hot glue everyoneās been using.
Thereās no way I can make a safety decision without having the cells here I front of me. I am forced to err on the side of caution and recommend replacing any cell that might have been punctured or where the bottom is damaged.
Sorry, no safe ones. Itās so critical to have your welding dialed in before glueing the pack together. Yea, I know, that doesnāt help you but itās all I got.
1 Like
@ZachTetra thanks for the advice earlier
i have decided to take the time reading through this thread once again and am going to have a second go with some new cells
this pack i will still attempt to salvage and will take apart to bare p groups and redesign to fit a dif deck for the future
thanks for the help and am gonna plan out and be much more careful this time
thank
6 Likes
If you have fucked up cells the easiest is just make a brick battery out of them, a top mount is always nice if itās gross out
Iād get a Dremel with a grind stone tip and clean all the cells, you will probably fuck up the shrink wrap and insulation at some point on a lot so you can get a bulk order of wraps and redo them all at once, then you can have them sit nice and square again
Go ham with layers of protection, there is no such thing as too safe, you can also pre-fab stuff like the balance leads to make it neat in the future
3 Likes
So the welds themselves are good so prob will leave those if possible
For the series connections and the balance leads and protection will do all those again.
Ordered 100 p42a and some drunken monster nickel pieces
Will each of his tabs be enough for 8p? Or should I double stack?
Def gonna plan this out better
The rule of thumb for nickel is 10A per square mm is ideal, 20A per square mm is the usual. If the tab (at the bottle neck) is 42mm by 0.2mm per layer then each layer is good for 84A, a 8p P42A is good up to about 280A so ideally 3 layers if you want the max power. But you can double it safely, so 1 layer if youāre not pushing it, 2 if youāre pulling serious amps
3 Likes
K cheers dunno size of drunken monster but wil find out and do 2 layers
Thanks
Cells coming soon and nickel only in ages
Gonna covert my old pack to top mount
Iāve had great luck with the KSGER T12 station. Has enough power with the larger tips to do 10awg. I havenāt tried 8awg, but I canāt imagine itād be impossible.
2 Likes
Literally just used mine for the first time today. @MysticalDork got my jooblies jibbled up with his positive comments on T-12 a good while back.
Poops on the TS-80 for me and new cartridge tips are hella cheap with a huge variety of options. Great recco.
2 Likes
Is this like the new meta for soldering irons? Iām looking for a new one.
2 Likes