I wouldnt doubt you for a second, @oldman 
I think it may be possible to re-use that crimp, but personally I wouldnt. If you do, then maybe drop a tiny bit of solder on there to make sure its not going to come apart again.
Haha⌠Its too tiny for my oldman eyesight! To be continued at a later date.
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Thanks I think thatâs the same bms.
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Recentely bought the specialized crimping tool if @oldman need a couple of wires could do it for pretty much free and send it away in an envelope goes up to 2.00mm but gotta make sure thats the case
Edit: it is 1mm to 2mm
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What do yaâll think of the Samsung 35E battery?
Is a 10s5p enough for 2Ă6374s?
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Hey thanks for your offer! I am so far undecided how Im going to proceed.
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Up to you 
, BTW the offer is up for anyone so dmâs are open
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Depends how many amps you plan to pull. If you are doing more than 20 battery amps per side (40A total) then you are probably going to see significant sag from those cells. And if your cells are sagging, it means that you are getting poor efficiency out of them.
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What exactly does âsaggingâ mean?
Depends on your âenoughâ.
Enough to move you on the board? Absolutely.
Enough to take full advantage of the power handling capabilities of dual 6374s? Absolutely not.
When you apply a load to a battery of a given voltage (letâs say itâs at 4v/cell, so 48 volts overall), the voltage will drop depending on how much current is drawn, and the internal (chemical and mechanical) characteristics of the cells.
With a large load and cells that arenât designed for high discharge like 35Es, the voltage per cell will drop significantly - maybe 0.3v/cell or 3.6 volts overall. Once the load goes away, the voltage will rebound back up nearer the starting voltage.
Because you are pulling the same amperage at a lower voltage, youâre getting less power to your motors than if your cells only sagged 0.1v/cell.
Also, all that lost power didnât just magically disappear. Itâs converted straight to heat, inside your cells, which is not a place you want extra heat.
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Ah, ok got it. So to be safe I should set the motor max no higher than 20a? Otherwise heat and boom=new board. Also, what should the voltage be for a 10s5p w/35eâs?
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Might not mean boom but you would be shortening the life and range of the pack. For voltage, you should look at the datasheet of the cell, as different chemistryâs use different values.
Most often 18650 and 21700 lithium ion cells are charged to a max of 4.2 volts per cell, and discharged to around 3.3v for esk8 use. Low current applications like portable chargers usually go down to less than 3v, but in our case, itâs safe to stay above 3v.
For a 10s5p of 35E cells, the max charge voltage would be around 42v and low voltage cut off should be around 33v. 35E cells are technically rated for 9.8A continuous and 14.7A peak, which with 5 in parallel should output 49A and 73.5A, but thermal performance and capacity suffers at that much current.
What you should do if you take the 35E route is set your battery max to 20/-10 and motor max to ~60/-60 on each ESC, as this will give you better low speed torque, but still limit each ESC from pulling more than 20A.
A better option would to do a 10s5p 30Q pack, which would allow you to pull 80-100A, and to set a battery max of around 40/-12 and motor max of 60/-60. 30Q cells have around 14% less capacity, but they sag a lot less than the 35E which will probably balance out to around the same range. This pack should be more suitable for 6374 motors.
One thing Iâm not sure if you mentioned or not is that if you are using a V4 hardware ESC, they are usually thermally limited to around 20-25A anyway.
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Awesome, yaâll have given me some good insight and things to think about. Thanks guys/gals!
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Whereâs the fun in that?
As my old mentor used to say, âtake chances, make mistakes, and get messy!â
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Yeah but when the chance is for +3% range and the mess is your battery loosing capacity, is it worth it?
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The capacity loss is far overblown in practical use.
Besides, when cells are designed to be âemptyâ at 2.8v, why wouldnât one use them that way?
If youâre considering 3.0-3.3v as empty for the sake of not losing capacity a couple of years from now, then in practice youâve already given up the capacity.
Iâll just rebuild my batteries when theyâre spent and when I can afford to.
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Realistically you get a lot less power and range out of that last 0.3v, if you look at the discharge curve itâs not really worth it. I personally set my batteries to run low so throttle at 3.1v and stop at 3.0v but I rarely get that low, mostly itâs just so I donât hit the voltage cut off in cold weather
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I donât really expect power and range when Iâm at that point, Iâm just trying to get home having not found a charging spot or misjudged ride distance.
Rarely do I ever ride below 20%, and I find myself riding less in the cold as the years go by.
We all make our choices. And I choose to be able to ride a mile at 5mph to get home without carrying my board. Itâs usable capacity, and I choose to use it.
I just donât buy into the idea that sacrificing usable range of a battery is worth it, because the capacity is either gone after 500 cycles or gone right from the beginning.
It depends on the use for the board, if you ride a board every day as your main mode of transport to work then you want to treat the board with care, and that extends to the batteryâŚbut if you ride for shits and giggles then squeeze every drop of power out while you still can
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LOL there are guys that donât charge past 4.1V per either. I soft cut at 3.35 and hard cut at 2.9 but thatâs mainly to prevent a low voltage cutout and to eek me home if I was dumb enough to not be close when I hit the soft cut.
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