It was velcroed very securely…I think the enclosure needs a gasket. Moot point now. I now require a new deck and enclosure. Board is cracking! F.M.L.
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Velcro on both sides… For the cushion.
And yeah. Sorry bro. Diy is a disease…
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Hi man, love your spots quality! Are those made using the kweld? What battery do you use?
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Thanks. Those were the only pretty ones…
I chose the maectrics. At the time I got it I was all together 100 bucks less than the kweld. So I went for it. I am Also not making ba ton of packs.
Maectrics recommends the battery. 3s 65c-135. Or something like that from hobbywing… I got just one at first and it would not go vert far.so I got a second one.
is that rubbed through from abrasion? or melted?
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This is an important question.
Defiantly abrasion. Its most likely that im going to be installing a new bms anyway. This just pushes the battery pack maintenance to the forefront
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Can anyone identify this bms? I’ve got a davega x on the way snd need to know what I’ve
got here
It seems to be rather large. The ground for the entire pack runs through it.
It kinda looks like a SuPower BMS. It almost looks the same as the one this guy was selling on the old forum, but 12S instead of 10.
Why does the BMS you have matter for your Davega? Unless its a FlexiBMS or a DieBieMS (and it aint either) then the Davega cant interact with them.
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I’m pretty green. This is the first bms I’ve personally seen. I guess I was hoping I had one of those two? I now know I need to get shopping for a new bms. Thanks for the info.
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You’re welcome 
Also, if your BMS is working fine, it’s probably more trouble than its worth to replace it. Being able to check on your p-group voltages is cool and all, but definitely not vital. I subscribe firmly to the “leave well enough alone” school of thinking.
Not to mention that poking around in your battery is dangerous as fuck. If you dont have experience with battery work for esk8, it’s probably best to leave that battery alone, or pay a pro to install a new BMS for you. I could do it for you, but again my advise is to just leave the BMS.
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Thank you…this is very solid advice obviously.
I used to race rc cars very competitively in the tri-state area. Being very competitive, I learned how to match my own battery packs (ni-cad back in the day). Bought the equipment, was testing batteries every day as the cycle takes time etc.
Point is I’m very comfortable with batteries, and packs. Weird side note there was a dude back then refered to as “Mooch” Is this the same guy today in our forum? He was an absolute battery king back then!
This pack requires maintenance anyway. There are as many as 6 locations where the balance leads have been abraited to bare copper.
I need to remove shrink and re shrink anyway.
During the process of repairing the balance leads (likely using shrink tubing) I’ll need to de-solder the balance leads from the pack anyway. So…I figure might as well get a compatible bms for the Davega x at the same time? The plug for my current bms also has a p group lead detached currently too. I have to address those issues anyway?
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Gotcha! Then just be safe 
Liion has a lot more energy than NiCad. I usually keep a bucket of water and a bucket of sand on hand when doing battery work, just in case.
Almost certainly! And yes, @Battery_Mooch is an absolute legend 
we are lucky to have him.
While I agree you need to repair them, I would advise against soldering against the p-groups if possible. Transferring heat to the cells can damage them and reduce their capacity, or in the worst case, damage the safety mechanisms built into the cells.
It would be better to simply unplug the BMS wiring harness from the BMS, de-pin one of the damaged wires, slide your heat shrink over it, shrink it, re-pin in the same spot, then move to the next one. This way requires no cutting or soldering at all.
Are you referring to this spot? Check to see if that balance lead still has the JST crimp on it. If so, you should be able to just plug it back in. It kind of looks like the crimp broke off, and thats bad news. Re-crimping those wires is a huge ass pain and requires a specialized tool.
It would probably be easier to find pre-crimped wires of the correct type and solder it on to that broken wire.
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Still is, he’s working on the Tesla cell testing right now!
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Yes that’s the lead. The pin is still in the connector. Bare wire on the lead.
That’s solid advice regarding de-pinning rather than de soldering. Hadn’t really thought of that approach…thanks. I was thinking about using an aluminum heat sink approach but your approach seems safer.
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Gotcha. Then first things first, unplug the BMS harness and try to extract that broken off crimp. I dont have to tell you to be really careful you don’t short anything against the other pins 
Then you’re going to want to identify the type of connector it is so you can order some pre-crimped wires and solder one onto your broken off balance wire so you can plug it back in.
I may even start a build - rebuild thread. I have a crack in my deck so this will end up being a total rebuild.
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Back in the day I had a dedicated de pinning tool…long gone today though. So damn usefull
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Ok come on…you doubt my skills that much? I’ve de-pinned it now. I “should” be able to un crimp and re crimp this connector and re insert no?
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