The battery builders club

I do. My Onewheel XR was my main commute board since late 2018. Got 21 miles on a charge back then, I get 19 now. Rode it down to 0% often. I don’t have to rebuild the pack yet, but when the time comes, I will. The board is very well taken care of, it’s never broken down. It’s on its third tire, and original battery.

My DIY has about 700 miles on it now, range is unchanged. Granted, I’ve only drained it to empty a bit over 10 times, but it’s showing no signs of slowing down.

Moreover, many people in NYC have production boards as their commuter. And riding in NYC isn’t exactly soft going. They’re beholden to whatever the manufacturer set as the cutoff, which is often below 3v.

Babying a board and taking care of it are often two different things, and often based on different criteria for risk/reward on the use of the product.

Like I said, we all make our choices, and stick to how we do things based on whatever it is that makes us feel better. If after X amount of miles with my use of my boards, I’m seeing only X amount of reduction of usable battery capacity, then that’s what I’m getting.

I don’t have to buy into an idea that I find of no use to me, and it’d be silly of me to expect anyone else to do the same.

And if you’re worried about having only 70-80% capacity in a couple of years, then only use 70-80% of the capacity of the battery now.

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Most of the damage happened at the high and low end of the voyage range keeping it with in 80-30% cans almos double the life of the battery. Things like only topping up befor use and charging soon after use can help reduce the damage to the battery’s if you want to use the full capacity charging slow with curent monertring cut off (very few chargers have this more common in BMS but not manny allow configuration for type/p count.) Personally I’m happy pushing the battery’s harder and use 4.2-3v and just accept in reducing the battery life. I also use the open loop VESC command when I’m not using the board for several days. But end of the day it all comes down to what compromises you happy with. It’s a personal choice. hell some manufactures say go down to 2.5v but you cause more damage at the lower end and small batttys sag a lot when you pull high loads.

Haven’t popped in here in a while… just gotta say, @BenjaminF you are doing god’s work mate, well done :call_me_hand:

And goddamn it’s great having @Battery_Mooch here with us. Thankyou for all your knowledge mate, I hope your health issues are on the mend.

@MysticalDork informative as ever. Love your work dude :ok_hand:

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Seconded on both counts. Its awesome to be surrounded by such smart and cool people in this community.

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Okey dokey kids.
Here we go again.
Got a bit of work done tonight on the pack for the Flux.
Plan is.

12S10P with 30Q and LTT BMS
Will be using 0.2x30mm nickel.
Thank a bunch @ZachTetra

I think for the series I’m going to o do 3 x 14awg silicone cable.

Tonight I finished gluing. And taping. And wrapping in fish paper.

Not super stoked to have to weld on a 18650 after just doing 21700s with all that room…

Also talk about luck. After cutting the strips of nickel for this pack and the one I just finished that little square is all I had left.
Just barely enough.see

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I really like your robust pack construction method! As far as 3x 14AWG, that should be overkill. If overkill is what you want, then go right ahead! :grin:

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Well.
So on the Haero pack that was 12s4p 40t I did 2 x 12awg.
And I did not love the look of my solder connections.

I feel that I do better with the 14awg.

But I was worried 2 x 14 awg was not enough.

I’m going to be running the flux off a unity on TB 190kv 6380s.

I usually do mellow settings.

So will probably so 45 amps battery and 75 amp motors.

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2x 14AWG is totally sufficient if you ask me. Especially if you do modest settings like you say. The current load of our esk8’s is normally fairly low, and only peaks when we peg the throttle or accelerate up a steep hill.

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Going off what Ben said, the shorter the wires are the more forgiving the gauge will be, so as long as the series connections are short and spread out to not have current hot spots you should be fine. For the main discharge leads you want a bit more beef since it’s a longer wire but in this case it’s still pretty short, just make sure your welds are good and the pack termination has at least as many points of contact as the series connections

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I’m so excited, my 0.2mm x 30mm nickel is coming Tuesday, only 27 days after I ordered it, actually before the expected delivery date. Crazy for AliExpress. Hope the rest of my Ali stuff comes soon… :crossed_fingers:

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Hey guys! Is it possible to SAFELY pair a 6s lipo with a 10s5p Li-ion in series for more power?

Hell no son. Just dont mix moonshine with beer

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:open_mouth:thats my favorite drink

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Is it possible, if the planets and stars are aligned and every possible variable is taken into account?
(also, is it possible to breed a flying pig?)
Yes.

Is it something anyone should ever consider actually doing? Hell no.

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Just finished putting it all together! Now I just gotta wait for snow :snowflake:

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Mind your pluses and minuses. :unamused:

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Spicy, hope you’re all good dude!

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Looks like you were pretty close to having some kentucky-fried fingers. Always take care to label or color code your connections. “I’ll remember which is which” is not good enough.

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Hell yes dude, that looks so lit!

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