Yeah I think it’s about the same haha
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Yeah thats what @ShutterShock pointed out. A bit crude to rewrite the settings every time but whats the difference really. I’ll try to remember to test that this weekend.
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Yeah well I think we can all agree the app could use improvements lmao
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Man that’s some sweet work right there, bookmarked!
Once you’ve glued all the parallel groups do you also glue each group to each other? Or is the nickel and fibreglass tape sufficient enough to hold it together?
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I’d personally glue them together, or at least use some double sided tape or something to reduce the stress on the nickel.
IMO it’s generally bad practice to have your electrical connections also be structural.
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Definitely have something besides the nickel holding the pack together, I personally use HMA between everything so it’s super solid before any nickel, kapton, shrink wrap or anything else
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So before spot welding all the nickel you’ve secured the entire brick of cells together with HMA?
Yeah I use a lot of hot glue and ABS spines if I can
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Thanks for the help! I’ve got the entire process down for when I start my SS pack for the sportster based off @Skyart’s battery thread 
But have been clueless until now on how people structure and build their brick packs for mtbs.
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Brick packs are easy if you have the right materials, but even if you don’t it’s not awful with planning
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For sure, wide (n thicc) nickel seems to be the solution for all our high current problems. Just received my Kweld for all those 0.2mm spot welds 
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What tester are you using? I bought a cheap one from Amazon but it was telling me yhe capacity of my cells where 3300-3800mah for cells rated at 3100. I ordered a couple opus 3100 because that’s what I read was reliable.
The IR readings from the Opus are essentially useless (like almost all chargers) but the capacity measuring accuracy was only off by about 11% (too low) in my testing.
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Yep, correct. And then I clamp the whole brick together to make sure its all nice and tight!
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I am using basic LiitoKala Lii-500.
Nothing special there just a basic capacity test. I know that it has tendency to show a bit lower capacity for cells.
I’ve run 4 random cells and the results are surprisingly consistent:
3116 mAh
3179 mAh
3175 mAh
3185 mAh
That was at 1A charge/discharge. I will try lower current because at 1A things get hot in this charger.
This is very close to the capacity this charger measure for brand new 3500mAh cells i had tested.
So far so good. I’ll run some more tonight. But it seems correct what NKON states for those cells. They were not used just stripped from devices that were discontinued or similar.
Well I’m using it for capacity testing. What do you recommend for accurate IR and capacity readings?
Ya I read that liito tester was decent. I too am testing new unused cells stripped from battery packs.
The LiitoKala Lii-500‘s capacity measurements are way off but, like all the chargers, if you don’t care what the actual capacity is and you just want to compare cells then you can use it as long as it’s consistent. Test the same cell a few times in the same slot and make sure the number doesn’t change more than a few mAh.
Accurate DC IR testing can get expensive. 
I recommend this ESR meter: LiPo ESR Meter Mark II - ProgressiveRC
For AC IR testing I recommend the YR-1030 on AliExpress. Only a few percent off what a $1300 meter says.
But if you want to use a charger try the SkyRC MC-3000. About as accurate as a charger will get for IR and capacity testing: https://www.patreon.com/posts/28883945
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lowkey wanna buy more of those model 3 batteries for the ones I still have but not enough of lol