The battery builders club

Any time man! I have been trying to share that graphic around as much as possible. I dont really know a good spot to put it lol.

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I’m finally getting around to planning a battery pack build using reclaimed A123 batteries from BatteryHookup. These batteries are still welded to the thin nickel plating that they came with. I would like to create a 12s1p pack from these batteries.

There are two approaches that I have read about here but am not sure which one is best for me.

  1. Spot weld on top of existing strips (cut down strips first, but leave welded nickel)
  2. Remove existing strips from battery cells (use pliers, grinder)
  3. Solder braided copper to existing strips

I do have a spot welder (not a great one), and I suspect option 1 is probably the route I will take. I would like to expore route 3 but I can’t find a lot of reliable information about it to determine it is a viable option. Thoughts?

Nope, bad, do not do. The kind of heat it takes to get a good solder joint (especially with braid) seriously damages the cells, and in some cases can deteriorate the safety mechanisms built into the cell, causing a catastrophic failure. Spot welding is the safe way to make a pack. Buy a Malectrics and use your car battery to run it if you are on a budget, and a buy a kWeld if you are not.

This is super easy with these pliers:

Or any “flush cutters” as these are commonly referred to as. Simply slip one half of the jaws under the nickel, grip it gently, and roll the nickel off the top of the can like peeling up the lid of a soup can. Be careful that you dont use so much pressure that the pliers cut through the sheilding on the shoulder of the can, causing a shoulder short. Then use some sand paper and carefully smooth out the bits of nickel it leaves behind until you have a nice smooth surface for your new welds.

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Soo I have had the worst experience with LLT power.
Almost 2 months after order was placed I got a refund and no BMS…

I’m searching for two bms 10s by-passed with an e-switch. A smart bms with decent app would be a plus…

Suggestions?

That doesn’t sound so bad. LLT is going to be your best bet for a smart bms. You could look at the Neptune 15, but that’s like 3x the price. I see you’re in Finland, but a few ppl keep stock of the LLT BMS on hand (including @ApexBoards in the UK) if you want to order something that has a better chance of making it to you.

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Well that’s the short version of it. I don’t like publically flame a company that many has been happy with. But my case was just ridiculous… Anyways…
Thanks for the tip. @ApexBoards do you have a pc module instock aswell? I’m not updated on the whole Brexit thing. Will there be any extra VAT charges if you ship to EU?

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Yeah I mean I got mine in 12 days order to receive

I kinda want to try some of their life PO I have heard good things

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Do you just weld through the foam?

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@kevingraehl he told me he had some

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Yeah I really wish I still had my onewheel working because then I would be building a bunch of 16s batteries out of those high capacity life cells.

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QMVSGXX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6V6LFbADVNHQK

Is there something fishy about this? The price seems low compared to Aliexpress for example. I need to get a 14S BT BMS

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I was just looking at that myself lol.

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after shipping it seems kinda close.

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While we’re on the 14s topic. Anyone have experience with the Ant smart bms ? Got a ebike battery in the works. It’s between the Ant and the LLT.

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Last time I ordered a 12s I got a 7. And I just kept that son of a bitch cause who knows when you might need it?

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I save dis

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Lol the only fishy thing I see is the other listings by that seller :joy:

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ok ok OK

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