Haha not my choice to make
clearly it needs to be 14s. 
Iām doing 12s2p in the first part of that formation. is that considered weird? is it just the distant p-group bit thatās weird?
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Haha he sent me a 13s BMS so heās getting a 13s battery but yeah 14s would have been a little neater
The 12s block is not bad at all, a little bit of work to do the folded nickel the way I do (all folds on the same side so I have a spot to solder balance leads too) but other than that itās easy
@MysticalDork itās too small by a hair for that, the cells are too long (only works with 18650 cells)
@kook itās perfect for a 12s2p 21700 pack though
Bah, foiled again.
that was my second thoughtā¦ untill i took out 4 P42Asā¦ just an RCH too smallā¦
can verify
Why did they choose that massive BMS?
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Its an 80A discharge BMS and the cells are rated for 45A a pop
why does anybody sacrifice valuable pack size for a stUUpidly huge BMS?
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I mean for my boards I have enough space to go from a DALY bypass to a LTT smart bypass so I think thatās a worthy upgrade, but I will never go for a discharge bms
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iām looking at pogo-pins and a magnetic connector to take all the battery charging rig-a-ma-roll from the place where the zoom-zoom cells go
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I donāt use my boards enough to justify the extra range, I would rather the extra $40 per board for the convenience
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everybody should make boards that suit them
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Not sure if anyone has pointed this out but make sure you have something separating those pgroups. You donāt want current flow to create hot spots due to the nickel touching each other and separating along the long red line. Same with the rid circle i drew, drop a good bit of solder there, because if you have copper come togther and separate as ride vibrations and flex happen, curent flow will be redirected and intensifies as the copper strands come together and separate. You want to make sure the current only takes the path you want it to take, not any other accidental path the battery may create for itself as your deck flexes and ride vibrations happen.
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I would say the total opasit. Hot spots would only happen if you had potential difrence. If your series links were undersized. Electrons flow in the path of lease resistance making hot spots would mean you have a lot of resistance in your series links
Adding solder there will add a brittle point on the most vulnerable part to flex more likely to cause fraying
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Hmm, I think the best course if action would be to not do the X all together. But it may work just fine, anytime you interrupt curent flow, you create heat. It is probbaly nothing to worry about in this application, butā¦juss sayin lol
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Iād use a fukkton more flux on those joints, make sure I wasnāt using solder wick (looks similar) most know they can eliminate solder creep with hemostats or the like and carry onā¦
@jack.luis didnāt you post pix of silicone wire for series bridging ?
why switch to thin braid?
isolation between groups that are intended to be joinedā¦
iām 60-40 againstā¦ there are reasons for both
What cells? P42a should not be used at 45s continuous
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Uā¦meā¦and the m00ch agree
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iād have gone 12x3 vs 13x2 and fukk that BMS
Yeah, but thatās what they are rated for š¤·
Personally I wouldnāt push them that hard, I go by the word of Mooch
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